Palm trees,the Nile, the Mediterranean: is this what Rosetta is all about? Well yes, and more, finds Rasha Sadek Why go now? On today's tourist map, Rosetta is still virgin, a city of authentic magic and untouched beauty. Not polluted by heavy industry or overcrowding, the air is fresh and clean. This is exactly why you should consider going to Rosetta now. With spring knocking on Egypt's door, Rosetta's weather is magnificent, similar to that of Alexandria. Located in Beheira Governorate, the city falls on the west bank of the Nile, of which two of seven original branches remain, one leading to Damietta and the other to Rosetta. The city caters to various tastes, combining monuments from several historical eras with an appealing landscape. Transportation, accommodation and dining out Unfortunately, accessing Rosetta is a bit difficult. There is no direct road linking Cairo to Rosetta. If you have decided to go on a day trip to see the treasures of this city -- a wise choice -- take a private car. The drive takes about three and a half hours along the Desert Road, passing by Alexandria, or along the Agricultural Road through Damanhour. If you happen to already be in Alexandria, then Rosetta is only 65 kilometres to the east. There are no direct buses or trains between Cairo and Rosetta, but travellers can take a taxi or bus from Alexandria or Damanhour to reach Rosetta. Buses from Alexandria to Rosetta leave hourly from Al-Gomhoreya Square. The last bus leaving Rosetta back to Alexandria heads out at 5pm. As you get there, the transportation problem is worked out. Green and yellow taxis are cheap and plentiful. Rides in town are LE1, while a taxi to the citadel will cost LE5. There are three modest hotels in Rosetta, but comfort and complete services aren't guaranteed. Your best bet is to spend the night in Alexandria, which offers a wide selection of one- to five-star hotels. If you are looking for lunch, fresh fish is one of your best options. Small restaurants like Al-Zohour are scattered along the Corniche, serving fish right from the river onto your plate. Enjoy your lunch while the Nile stretches out at your feet. City fact file The present name of Rosetta is derived from the Ancient Egyptian Rhyt, meaning "the common people", which became Rhikhit in Coptic, Rashid in Arabic and later Europeanised into Rosetta. The Nile extends along Rosetta separating it from Kafr Al- Sheikh. The two cities are linked with ferry boats -- a joyous ride among the waters of the Nile. While you are taking a nice walk on the Corniche of Rosetta, you can watch workers building fishing boats. You can see boats in various stages of construction, presenting an attractive carnival of colours. The fame of Rosetta in modern times comes from the Rosetta Stone, chanced upon by French soldiers who were rebuilding the Qaitbey Citadel in 1799. Jean François Champollion deciphered the Stone in 1822, solving the mystery of hieroglyphics. Recording a text in three scripts, hieroglyphic, demotic and Greek, the Rosetta Stone is now in the British Museum. It was carved in 196 BC by a group of priests to honour the Egyptian Pharaoh. It lists his achievements to benefit the priests and the people of Egypt. The text was copied in three different languages because hieroglyphic script was used for important religious documents, demotic was the common script of Egypt while Greek was the language of Egypt's rulers at the time. Known as "the city of a million palms", the palm plantations through which you pass to reach the city offer an entrancing introduction. A traditional craft, the weaving of palm fronds into baskets, has grown out of this industry, and you can examine the products in a street near Dumaqsis Mosque. If you are looking for picnic fare, or just want to enjoy the hustle and bustle of the market, there is a lively fruit and vegetable market right outside the monuments area. There is also a fish market in Port Said Street. A downside to Rosetta is that it's been hard-hit by global warming and subsequent erosion. Lands around the Nile in Rosetta have been disappearing at a quick rate. However, a sea wall has been constructed to slow the rate of attrition and it provides a wonderful point from which to observe the Nile. Historical background Ancient Rosetta was once the principal port of Egypt, but declined after the founding of Alexandria in 332 BC and remained neglected for centuries. During the Coptic and Fatimid periods Rosetta revived only to decline once again as Alexandria's trade with Italian cities flourished. The Mamlukes showed interest in Rosetta and its port, leaving architectural treasures modern visitors cherish. While Islamic Rosetta is believed to date back to the ninth century, the city's architectural core belongs to the Ottoman period, and dates from 1520 to 1800. With the Ottoman conquest of Egypt in 1517 Rosetta became the Egyptian port closest to Istanbul. By the 17th century it was a bustling, cosmopolitan centre with a population including Greeks, Turks, Nubians and Europeans. Rosetta declined once again after Mohamed Ali built the Mahmoudeya Canal to carry the Nile's waters to Alexandria. As Alexandria flourished Rosetta fell into disrepair. Another blow came when the High Dam was built, diverting the Nile away from Rosetta. The city's freshwater fishing industry ebbed and the once-vibrant shoreline was neglected. Must see During the city's more prosperous days, merchants built houses, mills, mosques and bathhouses. Today 22 remarkable Ottoman houses still stand along with 12 mosques, two mills and a fort from the Mamluke period. In 1951 the Egyptian Antiquities Department purchased all these monuments. A guided tour of the monuments will cost LE1 for Egyptians, LE12 for foreigners and LE6 for foreign students. The Supreme Antiquities Council of Rosetta provides well-informed guides. QAITBEY CITADEL: Located seven kilometres from Rosetta, the citadel was built in 1482 by Abul-Nasr Qaitbey shortly after he completed the fort bearing his name in Alexandria. The interior construction of the citadel was restored in the wake of the French Campaign of 1798, during which the Rosetta Stone was found. The French rebuilt parts of the citadel which were damaged during the Ottoman conquest in 1517. The citadel consists of a main tower, four auxiliary towers and the Hassan Kord Baba Mosque. The main tower was built to shelter soldiers and their commanders and to store food supplies and ammunition. In the southwestern tower, about a metre up from the ground, is a frame carved on the wall that marks the spot where the Rosetta Stone was found. The side towers are all constructed in the same fashion. The ground floor was used during the Mamluke era to place cannons whereas the French soldiers made use of the second floor of each tower for their artillery . The three holes in the roof of each tower were used for the purpose of giving orders and instructions. Look closely at the third step in the northeastern tower's staircase. This step was restored using a stone on which Pharaonic inscriptions are engraved. AL-AMASYALI HOUSE: Also known as Beit Hasiba Ghazal, this Ottoman building dates from 1808. The house was built by a Turk, Ali Al-Topgi, who later bequeathed it to his servant Al-Amasyali. The magnificent wooden ceiling is worth seeing as well as the mother-of-pearl-inlaid mashrabyas decorating the house. The building, like all the monuments in Rosetta, was restored by the Egyptian Antiquities Authority. Further restorations are currently underway. In a room on the second floor is the "songs' cupboard", a beautifully ornamented cupboard which acted as a hiding place for women who could watch the parties held in the adjacent room without being seen by the men. ABU SHAHIN MILL: As was common with large domestic establishments a mill was attached to the house. Depending on the wealth of the householders, the mill used to run by horses or manpower. Abu Shahin Mill was built during the second half of the 18th century to grind wheat and rice, both products Rosetta has long been famous for. AL-MAYZOUNI HOUSE: Located in Badreddin Street the house was constructed in 1740 by Abdel-Rahman Al-Bawab Al-Mayzouni, the grandfather of Zobaida Al-Bawab who married Mino, the second-in-command of the French Campaign. The house is a five-storey building and has a songs' cupboard. AZOUZ BATHHOUSE: Located in Al-Haddadin (blacksmiths) market beside the ruins of Zaghloul Mosque, it was built in the 17th century and bears the name of its last owner. It is the only public bath remaining from the Mamluke and Ottoman periods. Unfortunately, water damage is pervasive in the storey below ground level. THE RUINS OF ZAGHLOUL MOSQUE: Constructed with 244 columns of granite and marble and 200 small domes it was built in 1545 by Zaghloul Haroun and was once a centre of Islamic studies, second in fame only to Al-Azhar. In 1807, the mosque was used as a staging post for attacks mounted by General Frazier's troops against the soldiers of Mohamed Ali. The mosque is due to be restored at some time in the near future, but even in their current condition, these ruins have their own special charm. THE CONFLUENCE OF THE NILE: Rosetta enjoys marvellous scenery where the Nile meets the Mediterranean. Sea waves break on the Nile water without merging with it. When the sea is high dolphins often swim in the Nile. During my last visit to Rosetta I saw four dolphins in the Nile; odd but true. You can get to within 150 metres to mouth of the river. Any closer approach is forbidden by military restrictions.
