Youssef Rakha rediscovers an abandoned paradise of the 1980s Overlooking the Great Bitter Lake, which bulges out of the eastern shore of the Suez Canal midway between Suez and Ismailia, Fayed is one of Egypt's youngest vacation spots. A man-made, palm-studded paradise at the centre of a military barracks, complete with signs warning against entering certain areas or taking photographs, its heyday dates back to the late 1970s and early 1980s. That was the time when this unique stretch of shoreline drew a range of holiday- makers into its folds, from older veterans of the 1967 and 1973 wars -- when Fayed was first built, the army provided many of its personnel with cut- price housing there -- to Westernised bohemian students; from oil company employees to Cairo-based tourists and expatriates eager to discover an exciting new resort that promised all the attractions of the Red Sea at a fraction of the distance and the cost: rugged natural beauty; clear, dry atmosphere; luxurious service; and a satisfying variety of water sports. All, however, were in search of a single commodity, one which is in greater supply here than in any of the comparable resorts on either the Suez Canal or the Red Sea: quietude. The Ismailia-Suez highway, otherwise known as Al-Shari' Al-Gadid (The New Road), the closest thing to a main street connecting Fayed and Abu Sultan, the area's two principal concentrations of hotels, villas and beaches, is one of the most peaceful settings in the entire country at this time of year. Even the Bitter Lake itself tends, most of the time, to ripple on in near silence. Nothing and no one, with the possible exception of a handful of holiday-makers, is likely to disturb the peaceful vacationer. Particularly today, where beauty spots in the Sinai peninsula, north coast and the Red Sea have been subject to intensive development. Fayed, however, is no longer as popular a holiday destination as it once was. Offering all the creature comforts you could desire, Fayed transports you as far from the madding crowd you are likely to get after an hour's drive from Cairo. And for visitors venturing abroad, excursions are best undertaken during the cooler morning hours, although at this time of year in particular, the area remains surprisingly chilly at night. Due to the military presence -- less of a threat than a source of security -- Fayed induces a sense of being contained, cordoned off almost, which some might find oppressive. It is worth noting, too, for the benefit of travellers who like to engage with the locality, that Fayed has no local population as such. The few restaurants, cafeterias and houses which make up the town itself, are not as welcoming as they might be. BEARINGS: One of Fayed's principal attractions is its proximity to Cairo, a factor without which it would be unable to compete with, say, Hurghada or Ain Al - Sukhna. The fact that it is an hour or less away by car makes it a viable day-trip destination and a far more convenient weekend venue. Combined with a night in Ismailia, it works as a two-stop weekend, too. It is best to go by car, as this affords the chance to check out different hotels, hop over to Abu Sultan or spend the day at a beach outside your hotel complex. To get there, out on the Ismailia Road, via the Suez Road from Heliopolis, and take the first major left after the entrance to Ismailia Governorate. A word of warning, however: though smooth and well-paved, these roads afford opportunities to top up with petrol, food or first aid requirements; so make sure you and your vehicle are well prepared. Alternatively, East Delta Bus Company buses to Ismailia run every half hour from the Torgoman terminal, beyond Al-Galaa Street, from 6am to 9pm daily. Once in Ismailia (38kms away from Fayed), buses and service taxis to Fayed are available from the main station in the old quarter. Going to Fayed by way of Ismailia gives you the opportunity to spend the day exploring that city's sites. Otherwise service taxis straight to Fayed are available from the Torgoman Bus Station; though an expensive strategy, you can negotiate a round trip with some drivers, saving yourself the trouble of squeezing in with numerous other passengers. Still, a private vehicle remains your best bet. "THE NEW ROAD": The highway known as Al-Shari' Al-Gadid is the principal artery of both Fayed and Abu Sultan. Punctuated by stalls selling beach gear, it is lined on one side by agricultural fields, on the other by the string of beaches, resorts and private villas that make up Fayed itself. The New Road is a peculiar place, combining the red brick of unfinished construction work with the mud ditches so typical of Delta villages and a wealth of brightly coloured flowers. At several points the shore is visible beyond the buildings. The façades of some of the hotels may look modest, indeed almost decrepit, but are no indication of the quality of service offered inside: these relatively inexpensive venues provide such five-star luxuries as 24-hour room service, air conditioning, satellite television, well-managed beaches and swimming pools as well as opportunities for canoeing, jet-skiing and wind surfing. Bonita Village in Kabrit, described as "an Andalusian village" (tel 02 340 9879, fax 02 340 9533, e-mail: [email protected] ) also offers a mini-golf course, while the better known Helnan Morgan has a tennis court (54 Ismailia-Suez Road, tel 064 661 718, fax 064 661 719, e- mail: [email protected], Web site: www.helnan.com/ morgan ). In Abu Sultan options include the Inn Resort (tel 02 783 2016/2224, fax 02 735 2990) and Six Corners Resort (tel 064 400 232, fax 064 400 849), both excellent hotels offering five-star luxuries and a range of water sports. And on the food front, unless you want to venture into the town, where only modest Egyptian fare is available, you will find restaurants, bars and discos only inside the hotels, though there is no reason holiday- makers should not eat or enjoy an evening out in a hotel other than the one in which they are staying. Although the quality of the food and service is generally of the same high standard across the board, the Helnan's Seafood Restaurant and Bonita's El Puerto Disco are to be recommended. Travel is a monthly supplement of Al-Ahram Weekly appearing every fourth Thursday of the month. We welcome contributions and letters on subjects raised in this supplement. Material may be edited for length and clarity; and should be addressed to Rehab Saad, Travel Editor, Al-Ahram Weekly, Galaa St, Cairo, Arab Republic of Egypt; Fax: +202 578 6089; E-mail [email protected] For advertising call or fax +202 7704781; E-mail [email protected]
