Youssef Rakha tries out the miraculous strip of coast tucked away south of Hurghada There is something unique about the thriving cluster of beaches lining the coast south of Hurghada. Not only is it relatively untouched, isolated in the midst of a desert environment, with every natural treasure you need for a remarkable vacation, it is also astonishingly modern -- more modern, in fact, than the multi-faceted town of Hurghada itself, or the more northern resort of El-Gouna. Here you will find unequivocally five-star amenities on offer at even the most nature-oriented and ostensibly "simple" accommodation. Of the two resort spots on this coast which have come to prominence in the last few years, Suma Bay and Makadi Bay, the latter, though it offers no budget options at all, is a dream destination, boasting not only the full gamut of Red Sea water sports, but such luxuries as wrist-band controlled "all-inclusive" accommodation, rooms catering for groups as well as couples and individuals, and a luxurious standard of service. Since its clientele base to date is dominated by German tourists on vacations run by tour operators, the administration of the award-winning Le Meridien Makadi may still be a little unfamiliar with the requirements of smaller groups of Egyptian holiday-makers. But this state of affairs is unlikely to change unless the more adventurous among us decide to brave the road to Safaga and share the Teutonic passion for sun, sand and sea. Le Meridien Makadi is a huge compound occupying one quarter of a 1,000-square kilometre coastal plot that boasts, among other attractions, "the largest swimming pool in the Middle East" -- a winding, curvaceous, many-centred 6.4-square kilometre body of rippling lilac that begins in the outdoor dining area adjoining the lobby and meanders all the way down to the beach. Punctuated by tiny wooden bridges to help the visitor negotiate the resort's labyrinth of passageways, it is a cheering presence. Three, variously priced modes of five-star accommodation are available around the central building, while two cheaper categories of rooms ("lagoon" and "dune", named, respectively, after a system of artificial lagoons reminiscent of El-Gouna and a distant view of the Eastern Desert mountains) turn out to be equally, if not even more satisfying: located at more or less the same distance from the beach, they are both larger and quieter, their only disadvantage being that their balconies offer no hint of the sea. As is often the case with Red Sea resorts, however, the sea is but one aspect, and not always the most visible one, of a rich, many- sided experience that includes desert camping, night life and health-oriented spa activities. And the Le Meridien has all these in spades, not to mention a relaxed taste of the good life, business amenities including meeting rooms, walking, outdoor dining and souvenir shopping as well. A circular fountain stands in the middle of the spacious, regally decorated lobby, off which a peculiar tunnel-like structure leads to the 414 beach rooms and a small, circular courtyard, which in turn opens out onto the outdoor dining area. The same arrangement is replicated with ingenious exactitude, along with the rooms to which it leads, on two more floors, which are connected by a staircase and a single, slow elevator. Higher categories of accommodation, presumably located in the bigger, more imposing building above the lobby itself, include 142 "club rooms" and a total of 33 suites ranging from "club" to "presidential". The beach view begins with the swimming pool, set against the backdrop of the quiet, crystal-clear waters of the bay, cradled beneath an always colourful sky. This view is at its best from the second floor of the lobby, while on the opposite side a "tea lounge" affords excellent vistas over the western side of the compound, where the sun sets beautifully behind the mountains. The architects were clearly keen to use every available square centimetre of space overlooking the swimming pool: as a result, the lagoon and dune rooms are the most spacious -- and also afford those who like their peace and quiet with a certain degree of seclusion from the resort's busy animation programme. At the same time, however, this imperative never undermines the standard of the beach rooms, which all come with an enormously comfortable double bed, a mini-salon good enough for the most discerning among us, and a spotless bathtub. The lagoon rooms may not have a safe box of their own, but in their capaciousness they are even more tastefully decorated and completely immune to the noise of activities taking place around the beach and swimming pool by day, or in the Docker's Bar beside the lobby by night. The entertainment programme is one of the most varied in the region, including aerobics, mini-disco, beach volleyball, darts, bocce, and Circus, Karaoke and Nubian shows. The lagoon rooms are also the closest to the most unspoilt part of the beach, where the Sub Aqua Dive Centre and Tiger Marine Water Sports stand by side -- arguably the most important reference point in the entire compound. Life in a beach resort is always nicely organised, but this is particularly true -- though initially, perhaps, confusingly so -- in resorts which apply the most recent modes of standardisation, which go a long way in facilitating the process of calculating costs. Most of Makadi's customers, as already mentioned, come with large groups on organised tours, and it is their tour operators who have to worry about such intricacies. Egyptians -- who I would also advise to go in a group, as the atmosphere of the hotel can get somewhat lonely for the unaccompanied native -- must make sure they understand the system before they begin to indulge themselves. Le Meridien offers three modes of interaction with regard to food and drink: half- board, full-board and all- inclusive. The latter requires a wrist band to be worn at all times -- a badge of courage, that should allow you to get away with anything, in theory. Each of the first two schemes affords access to a limited number of meals, to be enjoyed in pre-determined venues during specified hours. But even the all- inclusive formula does not cover everything on offer. Thus, I was told, "ice cream, fresh waffles and fresh juices", for example, "are all excluded from the all-inclusive system". Customers should therefore always ask before making assumptions, as there are many services which are not actually covered by any of the three schemes. And towel cards notwithstanding, many of the indoor activities -- in fact, practically all of them, except for the indoor swimming pool -- incur an extra charge. Still, once you have got your head round how much it is actually costing you, the potential is enormous. The possibilities of the swimming pool are inexhaustible, the buffet dinner is served in several different places at the same time, and several excellent lunch venues are available, among which the Caravan Shack -- on the beach -- is a particularly exciting place to idle away an afternoon. You can hire not only equipment, but even a partner, to play tennis on international-standard courts, while the evening provides you with a chance to watch, if not actively take part in a range of dancing activities, some of which are held informally in the lobby itself. Walking around the compound is another way of taking in the desert atmosphere that envelops the resort, but before you leave, make sure you spend some time in the lobby café, where the waiters tend to get very excited when they find Egyptians among their clientele.
