Restaurant review: The tent in the making Big on liver in the quiet city street Tucked away in the calm of Al-Hegaz St, off the half- moon urban oasis that is Wadi Al-Nil St, lays the unperturbed La Cantina. Pseudo-Roman pillars and a wall of greenery mark off the entrance to this spacious café and bistro. An elevated terrace to the right is its crowning jewel, and though the beige tiles and glass tables are reminiscent of many of the city's outdoor cafés this one is a prime contender for the cigar. Arriving just as the night shift begins, my companion and I happen upon a row of orange shirts lined up in front of their superior. "We're doing great, but we can do better," seems to be gist of the head waiter's pep talk. Cynical quips, and those who can't help but stifle giggles when placed in such self-conscious positions, don't impede his progress. A solid first impression is thus secured by his relentless commitment to swimming against the lethargic current. Abaft the Port Beam is the shaded burrow-like outdoor shelter of the establishment. Extensions jutting out of the brick wall are cushioned and function as couches, aerated by oversized white stand-up fans and protected by neon blue mosquito grills. Overhead TVs blare out (what else?) Melody hits. This is where you go to escape the heat while remaining out in the open air, before moving onto the terrace at dusk. Inside, the elegance stakes of the décor are raised; more dark wood, in the form of stately square tables, is put to use to complement the beige and firebrick colour scheme. The demure manager, Mohamed Abdel-Munssef, perennially clad in tux-like apparel, overflows with hospitality as he weaves through the indoor spaciousness (no crammed tables here for the sake of maximised profit), attending to the larger groups and preferred customers. The cheery waiters (surely "fake cheer" is redundant when applied to the service industry) are light on their feet as they lay down the starters. The French onion and cream of chicken soup come in sizeable portions, the garlic mushrooms are uninspired but not over-marinated, and the savory balsamic beef fillet strips leave you wanting more. Furthermore, my companion assures me that the chef's salad's combination of smoked veal, cheddar, and boiled eggs turned out well. Cautiously, my companion and I stick close to the tried- and-tested for our main dishes. The beef steak, with the watery but sharp pepper sauce, struck the medium-well balance but wasn't filling enough, and the veal steak in mint cream managed to sidestep the dryness trap only to drown in its own heavy (albeit tasty) oiliness -- a third bite is back-breaking labour for the weak-willed. The menu is also big on liver; name the beast and they'll offer its glycogen-storing, bile-producing organ in its entire broiled splendor on a garnished plate. Adventurous patrons would further be advised to venture towards the following items of novelty: Italian hawawshy (what is most probably a minced beef calzone ) and pasta primavera with bone marrow and carrots. Post-dinner consumption is what this place is truly all about, and though the dessert menu doesn't spread its wings beyond brownies and ice cream, a steady flow of drinks and shishas are designed to keep you there till the closing hours. Alongside your selection from the frappe collection or the grenadine-based cocktails there's plenty of fruit flavoured molasses to ignite. Curious about the grape, I'm coerced into trying the peach "because," the waiter assures us, " everybody orders it," only to find it too light for someone addicted to 10mg of tar per cancer stick. Laid back, unpretentious, and reasonably priced this is a great getaway, so be thankful that it's currently flying under the radar. The waiters, efficient, amicable, and only ingratiating when offered an opening, set the tone to ensure this establishment's future status when it invariably turns into a kheima (tent) during Ramadan. La Cantina Bistro and café. 49 Al-Hegaz St, (off Wadi Al-Nil St), Mohandessin. Tel: (02) 303 3933, 012 747 0085. Opening hours: 10am-2.30pm. Dinner and shisha for two: LE150.
