Restaurant review: Zen and the art of Pad Thai generation Timeless curries, hyperglycemic juvenilities, and a duck to die for With a loud splash and sizzle the succulent prawns begin to mate excitedly with the onions. Bean sprouts and cilantro sprigs are tossed into this feverish stir-fry dance, along with crushed red chilies, pressed tofu, and chopped sweetened radishes. The rice vermicelli is added, followed by a hefty dollop of salt and an equal measure of sugar. Eggs are introduced and for a few fleeting moments it is a dark time; there lies the danger of a horrific outcome, some far-eastern form of a runny omelet. But, unsurprisingly, the final result is a superb Pad Thai now garnished with chopped roasted peanuts and lime wedges, and nothing short of exquisite. Thai food, or the world-cuisine version thereof, has spread across the globe like a religion centred round hedonism. And as the Chinese culinary experiment here continues to fail, their neighbours to the south have managed to quietly gain strength in this city's dining scene. So every Thursday night the Marriott's typically oriental Omar café indulges in a drag act of salty, sweet, sour and pungent -- the "Taste of Thailand" buffet. And it's impressive. At the entrance, a host sits in the lotus position plucking at a Renat ek, Thai xylophone, while another, also dressed in traditional Thai garb, escorts you to your table. A sparklingly over-lit buffet is contrasted with the subdued light of a dining area akin to a comfy conference room, window-dressed for the occasion with indigenous floral-print table cloths and placemats. It overlooks a large courtyard transformed into an outdoor playpen where hyperactive kids (the sugar- pushers' candy stands surround the court's perimeter) throw plastic balls at each other's faces and strap steel and leather to their waists and shoulders to bungee off a trampoline into the heavens, testing gravity's patience. But since they're barely audible, there's a certain deranged serenity to this singular panorama. An initial inspection of the starters is not exactly appetising. The spicy apple with bamboo shoots is light and sharp, but designed to merely whet the appetite. The chicken salad is decent but boring, and even the calamari with peppers looks uninspired. My cohort, however, sampled the ready-made gaeng khiew wan nua (green curry with beef) and gaeng garee gai (yellow curry with chicken) back to back and commended them both. The raw chicken and beef cutlets, sleeping with the fish on a bed of ice, also looked fresh and lean. For the purposes stir-fry these are to be delivered, along with your choice of veggies, to cooks armed with woks and expert timing. Most importantly, the sublime treasure tucked away, quite literally, in the corner of the buffet is the roasted duck. Served with celery and gravy (and also available in a pouri wrap), words fail my attempt to describe its divinity, or the accomplishment of the chef who managed to actualise such finesse. The service is first-rate and congenial; waiters take your beverage requests and furnishing you with fresh utensils every time you get up, exhibiting endless patience in the face of arrogant (and ignorant) patrons who can't shake off a delusional sense of entitlement. But regardless of the staff's performance, overcharging is bound to rub you the wrong way, or as my cohort put it, "LE12 for mineral water?!" So expect to pay more than advertised. But that's where the desserts come in; delicious and multifarious; they're there to end your dining experience on a sweet-&-sticky note, making it easier to forgive this excellent buffet any transgressions. The lychee shot glasses are refreshing and not overwhelmingly sweet, as with the apple fritters. Balls of fried wheat doused in honey (our konafa is the thinner- stranded local equivalent) are crisp, rich, and any bite constitutes a mouthful. The mango on sticky rice may clash on unbending taste buds, but then one can't count the ways washing it all down the ginger juice, sprinkled with cinnamon, is good for you. Taste of Thailand Omar Café, The Marriott Hotel, Zamalek. Tel: 735 8888. Every Thursday from 6pm--11pm. Dinner for two, LE300. By Waleed Marzouk
