Restaurant review: The local haul Simplicity at its freshest Thanks in large part to the determination and machinations of a conscientious former governor, Alexandria has in recent years become a pleasant place to visit. The essential day trip pit-stops remain the same. You start with a cruise through the Montazah gardens, progress to a brunch coffee across from the breaking waves, and then stroll along the boardwalk where homage can be paid to the local feisty vixens who pack more chutzpah than the sorely machismo-driven momma's boys they're forced to breed with. A visit to the world-renown library, still in the infancy of its second-coming and favouring galleries and gadgets to tomes, is now a must, and as dusk descends on this wondrous city by the sea, all escapades must culminate with a no-holds-barred fish dinner at Halaqet Al-Samak (the fish district). Heartbreakingly for those who place their trust in the munificence of mankind, the district, commonly revered as the source of many a fond memory and satiated appetite, is currently riding high on a callous and mean-spirited wave of regional capitalism. According to one trusted source, cost-effectiveness dictates that most of the district's restaurants import their shrimp from the Emirates, their calamari from Yemen, and gargantuan fillets, dubbed "Rhino" fillets, from, no bull, Uganda. The majority of the sea's haul is exported to the likes of Italy, Cyprus and Lebanon at prices that elicit nothing but scoffs from the local eateries. So for the average consumer, local or otherwise, fresh meat is now a rarity. While the lazy word of mouth of the putatively informed knows no better than to steer one to the up- market brand name restaurants, my retinue and I were lucky enough to have access to an insider, a persevering soul who's put in his 20-plus years as a chef at one of the districts high-end establishments, has just started trying out his own recipes in a makeshift set-up right on the sandy shores, and hopes to launch his own formal establishment once Ramadan is over (keep reading this column for a review). Demonstrating his characteristic generosity and sportsmanship, he directed us to one of a handful of restaurants that can truthfully brandish the slogan "from the sea to your stomach". Elaa, a family business which continues to raise many a suspicious eyebrow with its Hebraic phonemes, turns out to be the senior proprietor's nickname. Handing over the day-to-day management to his son, Ahmed Elaa's establishment now coasts along on a well-earned reputation. The menu's main dish is always one that respired earlier that day before squirming in the net, and all overnight leftovers are sold to exporters. There's not much to this charming L-shaped nook beyond wooden tables and plastic-covered chairs. The colour scheme is old-school blue and white, with model boats, steering wheels, nets, and coils of rope adorning the walls, and a lone TV providing the only ambiance, a stream of Quranic recitals during prayer time and Arabic pop hits otherwise. Unassuming, this is an establishment that places all emphasis on what ends up on your table. You select your dinner off a bed of ice, bedecked with an array of fish and two sizes of shrimp, and from a bucket of mollusks in the adjacent storehouse next door. Shortly after you're reseated, the fried fish arrives light and crispy, the cumin works overtime flavouring the broiled fish to perfection, and if the shrimps -- cooked with the authentic Alex recipe of tomatoes, onions and black pepper -- are light on flavour they make up for it succulent freshness. The sayadia (onion-flavoured fish rice) is rich, filling, and as appetising as the complementary side dishes of aubergines and pickles. From yuppie families to conservative couples, everyone circulates through these doors leaving stuffed and donning satisfied -- almost stupefied -- smiles. And with a bill bound to amuse rather than infuriate, your immanent return is also more likely than not. Elaa Fish Restaurant 3 Al-Quwat Al-Musalaha buildings, Al-Anfoushi, Alexandria. Tel: (203) 484 3995. Opening hours: 11am-4am. Dinner for two: LE100. By Waleed Marzouk
