Restaurant review: Shine on, you crazy diamond A lizard in the sun may not seem to be doing much; but at the cellular level, it really is quite busy By Injy El-Kashef Other than putting on the best possible infantilism show to qualify for edeiya (a symbolic monetary gift for children on the Eid), and the passing of the years notwithstanding, what is the very first thing we want to do once Ramadan ends, class? We want to eat, drink and smoke first thing in the morning, thoroughly relishing every bite, every sip, every deep long drag, before we go for more. What colour we turn for getting this accomplished is of little consequence, in the end, so long as we fulfill that vengeful desire. It is for this reason that I took my delightful self to the Maadi Cilantro branch. I... I who have nothing... do have an "appetite for life", as is the venue's motto. Cilantro (please pronounce the "C" for what it is and drop the imaginary "h") says my faithful Food Lover's Companion, are the bright green leaves and stems of the coriander plant, with a distinctive flavour lending itself to highly spiced foods. While the foods at Cilantro are thankfully not highly spiced (faithful readers will remember the fountains of youth that spring from my nostrils, eyes and, in rarer cases, ears, on account of spicy meals), they are most certainly of distinctive flavour. And what joy -- my longing was gratified with a huge surprise: gorgeous open air seating in the Cairo winter sun with three immaculate tables surrounded by immaculate benches aligned against the glass façade. I felt taken back to America Latina with the deep terra-cotta shade lacquering the wood; and as I stretched a leg on one of the benches looking onto the world in silent wisdom, I could have easily been mistaken for The Mexican. No fear of mistaken identity, though, once my order was placed on the table, ever so gracefully by my ever so graceful waiter -- we all know that glint of yummy when it shines in mine eyes. My salad was the Mediterranean, with (brace yourselves): chick peas, green peas, sweet corn, capsicum, olives, mushrooms and green peppers, all covered in a mildly tangy vinaigrette. The medley of colours (think about it -- yellow, green, red, orange, black and khaki) was a true celebration of the "appetite for life" the guys at Cilantro seek to honour -- and the perfect, light, guiltless, healthy and tantalising prelude to the next step of my brunch. Here comes the sun again, and my nonchalantly outstretched leg feels infused with the energy contained therein. Here, too, comes my Tortilla with Salami, Mozzarella and Mushrooms. Wrapped and folded calzone-style, this was simply one of the best sandwiches I have had in an eternity. The trick was in the right amounts of everything, fusing into a combination that left me eager for another visit, for the exact same order. My coffee, you ask? Ouh la la: Guatemala- Arabica latte was the name, with a hint of hazelnut syrup and a sprinkle of cinnamon. Crazy about flavours I am -- thank goodness some are kind enough to provide the madness. Cilantro Al-Nasr St, Autostrade Entrance, Maadi Tel 754 4955 - 6619 Reviewed order: LE40
