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Restaurant review: I am sophisticating
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 08 - 06 - 2006


Restaurant review:
I am sophisticating
With the schools out and the heat in, well -- hit the north, Jack
Once upon a time, back during undergraduate years, the air conditioner had stopped working in class on a day of such heat I could say it was comparable to what we have been suffering. The professor had bravely proceeded with her lecture to the best of her ability, even as she realised the notebooks were being used as fans by her students, who could no longer follow a word she was saying under the sheer pressure of being cooked alive. Then, a bold one dared interrupt to plead in agony: "Doctor, may I please open the window? I am sophisticating!"
Although the opened window brought in no cool, the muffled laughter collectively brought about enough comic relief to take our minds off the weather.
Looking at the sky these days and suffering its oppressively high temperatures makes me wonder indeed: why "sophisticate" in Cairo, when the Mediterranean is ours?
Personally, I cannot even contemplate food these days, unless it is of the fruit family, or else fished out of the water; and so, for this week's lecture, we will speak of the Sea Gull institution.
The mother Sea Gull has been around for many years, and had been catering single-handedly to the throngs of North Coast dwellers who had to make the trip to the Max in Alexandria when craving the best seafood money could buy. As its reputation maintained a shine that time seemed to make all the more blinding, popular demand resulted in the birth of some more Sea Gulls, all hovering close to the sea shore at different locations.
In the crowded décor of sea-related items surrounding you (from sharks hanging overhead to nets spread along the ceiling; from maritime charts to ancient aqualungs -- it's all there, TGI Friday's-style) -- the busy waiters are all over the place, carrying all manner of delectable platters to tables packed with customers.
Though digging your fingers deep into an extended seafood meal may seem like a challenging feat to parents who must run around children of an unruly age, fear not, for this too has been solved by the management. At the Sea Gull, there are live animals to pet and ride, as well as a play area that ensures your kids will have much to do while you abandon yourself to the raptures of grilled shrimp.
Indeed, if you have not yet sampled the Sea Gull's grilled shrimp, you have no idea what you're missing. They are succulently well-seasoned, and oh so pink; they come neatly arranged in a pile surrounded by grilled tomatoes, onions and green peppers and, unless you get to them swiftly, you may be unpleasantly surprised by the speed at which your dining companions will beat you to it. You cannot just brush this treat aside while tending to the sautéed clams for example; Sea Gull shrimp is simply a must-do. A word of advice, though: when that last shrimp that no one dared claim sits lonely on the plate, please do extend your arm and grab it, for it will have soaked in juice long enough to be the best of the lot.
As with all serious seafood establishments, you will have personally picked your very own fish and the method of cooking you prefer. My sole fish grilled in lemon and butter turned out to be superbly crisp at first bite, only to melt in my mouth with every morsel. Yet, could it take my hands away from the array of salads laid down on the table? The flavours compliment each other, and so the answer is a definite no.
The only problem with a trip to the Sea Gull is the bill, with prices soaring over the years to make a full seafood meal for a family of four quite expensive. It is a place better saved for a generous invitation to people one may wish to treat well, or impress.
After the meal is done and your fishy needs have been met, do not forgo the mastic ice-cream. It stretches, it cools, and it brings the kids back to the table without you having to fetch them.
Who wants to get up while mint tea is being served?
Sea Gull, Al Max, Alexandria (Reservations advised on weekends)
By Injy El-Kashef


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