From a neglected print house, a wood dump and a flea market -- three splendid Islamic monuments have finally opened their doors, dazzling visitors and reviving a great Mameluke era. Nevine El-Aref attended the inauguration During the holy month of Ramadan many Cairenes flock at night to the heart of mediaeval Cairo, especially in the surrounding area of Al-Azhar for folklore performances and Oriental sohour. However, on Wednesday the scene was slightly different. In a departure from the norm, Culture Minister Farouk Hosni, Minister of International Cooperation Fayza Abul-Naga, Cairo Governor Abdel-Azim Wazir and a score of other high-ranking government officials paid a visit to Al-Azhar to attend a Nassir Shamma oud concert and help inaugurate three Mameluke edifices -- Al-Ghouri, Mohamed Bek Abul-Dahab and Khan Al-Zaraksha -- following their restoration. In front of the awe-inspiring limestone façade of the Khan Al-Zaraksha edifice, embellished with fine mashrabiya windows on Al-Azhar Street, the tour began, led by archaeologist Ayman Abdel-Moneim, head of the Cultural Development Fund who explained the restoration works in progress. Like so many Islamic monuments in mediaeval Cairo, decades of neglect and the steady encroachment of inhabitants have dealt a heavy blow not only to the historic structures but to the memory of Al-Azhar Street once filled with splendour. Pollution, subsoil water and high humidity have all contributed to the fast-decaying antiquities. Urgent steps are being taken to restore the mediaeval quarter's cultural heritage under the umbrella of the ambitious Historic Cairo Restoration Programme. The monuments to benefit from this programme, launched almost a decade ago, are the archaeological complexes Al-Ghouri, Abul-Dahab and Khan Al-Zaraksha. The opening marked the completion of nearly 10 years of active restoration of the monuments and the immediate vicinity at a cost estimated at LE40 million. In addition to the environmental problems endemic to the area, the monuments have been plagued by leakage from an ablution fountain, and a century-old decaying sewage system. The 1992 earthquake only compounded these problems. But Hosni said the greatest harm had been done by the residents themselves. "One of the most serious causes of damage has been the misuse of the trio by visitors, as well as the encroachment over the centuries of traders and inhabitants, especially in the case of Al-Zaraksha and Al-Ghouri," Hosni said. Abdel-Moneim said using Khan Al-Zaraksha as a print shop had led to its decay and the accumulation of a great number of books and print machines had moved some of the building's walls overlooking the open court, spreading cracks throughout the structure. As for Al-Ghouri, shopkeepers renting space along the narrow street that runs parallel to Al-Ghouri Mosque have been unwittingly chipping away at the historic site after breaking away parts of the mosque's supporting walls to accommodate their shops. "As a result, the walls cracked, masonry was damaged and the mihrab (prayer niche) was in critical condition," Hosni said. In 1993, restoration teams moved in to rescue the once exquisite structure. By this time, ceiling decorations had been completely obscured and most of the flooring had broken. As for the mausoleum which is separate from the mosque, on its adjacent corner, with its distinguished unfinished cupola and a sabil-kuttab (where the ground floor is a fountain, above which is a school), also suffered similar problems. The complex is a fine example of Mameluke architecture; the façade has three latticed bays topped by stone panels. Looking from the vestibule of the mausoleum, the funeral chamber containing the body of Al-Ghouri's successor, Toman Bey, is on the right, while on the left is a prayer hall with three iwans (arcades) evenly distributed around the raised and covered part of a lantern. The interior of the sabil-kuttab is highly decorative, with marble floors and ceiling supported by rounded, painted and gilt beams. The two structures together -- the mausoleum and mosque -- have been referred to as the most impressive in Cairo. Abdel-Moneim said the 1992 earthquake severely damaged the Mohamed Bek Abul-Dahab complex consisting of a mosque, a sabil-kuttab and a tekeyya (charity house). It led to the collapse of small domes that once surrounded the main dome of the mosque, said to be the fourth Ottoman mosque in Egypt to be built following the style of those built in Istanbul. In its hey day the mosque acted as a school assisting Al-Azhar in its scientific and educational work. The weak drainage system of the mosque's water fountain raised the humidity and the accumulation of salts on the walls. Illicit digging by the area's inhabitants and bazaar owners beneath the mosque's southern wall has changed the mosque's original structure, making it more susceptible to collapse. Cracks appeared on the walls of the sabil-kuttab and the outdoor water well made to serve animals. The complex has been thoroughly revamped, its walls reinforced, its floors refurbished and missing and decayed stones replaced. Workers have painstakingly cleaned and desalinated the masonry and all the damaged columns of the mosque prayer hall, the open courtyard and the sabil-kuttab have been dismantled, restored and reassembled. Al-Ghouri complex, built by Mameluke Sultan Qansuh Al-Ghouri in 1504, and Khan Al-Zaraksha received similar treatment. Every effort was made to ensure that all original architectural features were retained. A new lighting system was installed, both inside and out. They will be lit at night, making the surrounding areas a pleasant sight amidst the reigning chaos. The areas around the three monuments have been upgraded and traders who once encroached on Al-Ghouri Mosque have been relocated in collaboration with the Cairo Governorate as well as the print shop in Al-Zaraksha.
