Restaurant review: Eat like an Egyptian Injy El-Kashef quirks an eye-brow I really think it's about time Abul-Sid spread its wings to fly beyond the national borders. Since the opening of the mother venture in Zamalek a few years ago, and the instant acclaim it harvested thanks to its gorgeous interior, warm ambiance and succulent food, it has been a success story all the way. Abul-Sid became the venue of choice not only for those who seek home-cooked Egyptian recipes, but also for anyone seeking a meal in style, atmosphere and elegant cosiness. After a couple more branches opened in Cairo, and another one in Sharm El-Sheikh, we now have the latest addition in City Stars -- and judging by how well the restaurant has managed to retain its original quality and maintain its authentic identity yet again, I can only begin to imagine the rave it would cause in New York or Paris. That is, unless the ma"tre who saw us in does not mend his hostile ways. Right at the door, instead of the smile one usually expects, we were greeted with the face of a person who not only hates his job but his entire life too. Lord have mercy, what fresh hell do we have here was my muted response to his unwelcoming greeting. But when he rolled his eyes and pursed his lips because I dared request a table for two, I was about ready to show him a verbal backhand had it not been for my friend's plea to give him another chance. I was surprised at her docility, for she is usually ready to bite anyone's head off, and often for no valid reason. "I am too hungry; please, please deal with him after my sharkasseiya," she beseeched. His rudeness made it obvious that variations on the same disposition would come aplenty in the course of the meal, so I agreed to postpone. Sharkasseiya (literally Circassian -- the origin of the dish), with its creamy sauce of walnuts and chicken livers, is one of Abul-Sid's signature dishes, and one that, incidentally, most homes have ceased to cook due to the lengthy preparation required. Like molokheyya, it is also one of those yummies that one would normally never have the courage to eat outside the house; and yet at Abul-Sid they are both simply divine. We began our meal with a couple of tried and tested appetisers: grilled chicken livers for me and miniature mombar (tripe stuffed with spiced rice) for her. The horrid man had unapologetically announced that the food would take a good half hour to materialise, which, it turned out, was just another of his attempts at being insufferable. Someone must have noticed the look I gave him when he laid the orange juice down, for that was the last we saw of Mr Obnoxious -- they probably bound and gagged him in a dark room for some discipline. For mains, a fish sayyadeya for her, and a shrimp tajin for me came baking hot in deep earthenware dishes; red rice with fried onions forming a delectable base for our seafood seasoned and cooked to perfection. The vegetables in which they are casseroled infused the bite-size fish morsels with the richly flavoured tenderness we had come to expect of Abul-Sid. As for my shrimps, I judged them too small in size, but nonetheless tasty with the sweetness of tomatoes and onions permeating the whole concoction. The ma"tre who replaced grumpy-man-of-the-year insisted to treat us to post-meal Turkish coffee on the house, hovering around the table, emptying the ashtray, topping up our water glasses, and doing just about anything to make up for his colleague's preposterous behaviour. The coffee was perfect, served in those delightful hourglass-shaped glasses that capture tradition and style, and it did much to alleviate the disappointment of the Umm Ali we shared for dessert. Rather than layers of filo pastry bathing in sweet milk and covered in nuts, this was a rather gooey affair with about an almond and a half in all of it, and no milk to slurp. We were LE250 poorer after the bill, but the Chant Avedissian portraits of Egyptian celebrities adorning the ochre walls, the soft lighting of graceful copper chandeliers, the details in every corner instilling an air of Egyptian chic, all combined to make this, as usual, a very pleasant meal. Abul-Sid Citystars Nasr City
