Restaurant review: So Hellenic, so cerulean One unusual Cairene Greek restaurant leaves Gamal Nkrumah breathtakingly impressed Lunch lasted a long time. We enjoyed the panoramic views of the majestic River Nile and the feeble winter sun. The faint light streamed through the windows. It was the perfect setting for sampling the simple pleasures of traditional Greek cuisine. The Greek Taverna is the perfect place for cheery eating, an eatery where it is impossible not to feel alive. Beautiful oil paintings of the cerulean Mediterranean, sun-drenched Greek islands and pretty white-washed houses with bright blue window frames. The idea is to make you feel that you are in Greece. The proriertress, a Greek national married to tycoon John Zahra, designed the interior décor. Everywhere in the spacious eatery she put a touch of Greece. Traditional Greek painted plates hanged on the off-white walls. Typically Ionian and Peloponnese oil jars and other Greek pottery and handicrafts. Greek pop songs blasted from the huge screen and loudspeakers. The atmosphere was decidedly Hellenic, and cerulean. Once upon a time, the best Greek restaurants in Egypt were located in Alexandria, the city founded by Alexander the Great. The city that would bear his name down the ages was home to hundreds of thousands of Greeks and Hellenic culture prevailed in certain quarters of the grand Mediterranean port city. Patisseries, like the fabled Pastroudi's and restaurants like Athineos, were frequented by the likes of the celebrated Alexandrian-Greek poet Constantine Cavafy. Cairo had far fewer of these Greek eateries. And, these restaurants, like their Alexandrian counterparts, became frozen in time, evoked images of pomp. The Greek Taverna, on the other hand, is refreshingly new. The restaurant opened literally a couple of days before the World Cup in Germany 2006. And, it has been going from strength to strength ever since. My partner and I dipped into the bowls of hors d'oeuvres and it was a pleasurable affair of the heart. I took my hat off to the ingenious Greek chef, Dimitri -- he worked wonders with the delicious dishes. The yemista, stuffed vegetarian tomato and red, yellow and green bell peppers, were absolutely luscious, the salata melitzanes Elliniki (Greek aubergine salad) delectable and the mezelikia heart and kidney stew was the dish of my choice. The tzatziki (yoghurt, mint, garlic and cucumber salad) was quite simply divine. My partner understood: we share the love of food and spending time together at the table. We took our time sampling the Greek culinary delights. What is so appealing, for me, about Greek cuisine is that it is very similar to Egypt's own traditional cooking. It is the traditional eastern Mediterranean feasting -- the Turks, the Levantines and the Egyptians. To enter The Taverna is to walk into a spot full of extraordinary surprises. The place is resplendent with the Greek national colours -- baby blue and cream. Add azure and canary yellow. An artist of great conjured the entire up. The colour scheme was enchanting, it was as if an artist tossed them all together. For us, food is such an integral part of social interaction. We sipped our bottled water and drank in the beauty of our surroundings. Coptic waiters with Greek names sporting little blue crosses tattooed on their wrists handed us the menu. They, too, were resplendent in white and blue tops and black baggy trousers. They were Christened Greek names -- Manolli, had a winning smile, and Sotiris, another waiter, was more reticent. My favourite was the taramousalata -- the delectable Greek pink paste made of smoked carp roe blended with spring onion, olive oil and lemon juice. There was the saghanaki, the fried cheese of the Greek peasants, but we stayed away from these cholesterol-laden delicacies. We toyed with the idea of the spanakoputa, or spinach pies, and decided to do without. One fascinating aspect of The Greek Taverna is that its clientele appear to be well-heeled society ladies and ambitious young couples on the make. There are no grouchy 20-somethings debating the future or making fashion statements. It is an eatery for more mature and level-headed couples. Cairo still has resonance today of the glory days of the ancient Greeks of Egypt. If you must indulge in Greek delicacies, then look out for The Greek Taverna which is a veritable showcase of Greek desires. "I feel like I am in Greece," my partner remarked. She commended the sheer culinary pleasure of the Greek eatery. I cannot wait to return. LE 150 Greek Taverna Le Pacha River Boat Zamalek Tel: 02 7355734, 027350174
