BEIRUT, Lebanon – A mere one and a half hours by plane from Cairo lies Beirut, the so-called Paris of the Middle East: a city vibrant in ethnicity and culture, rich in European wealth and gastronomy and awash with a boundless commitment to the future. Being confined to a two-day sweep through Beirut, leaving Lebanon's mountainous glory in the north and bright beaches in the south unexplored, is tragic indeed, but tough economic times warrant paister-pinching. Should you find yourself in such a position, let Youm7 be your guide as you navigate the throbbing pulse of a weekend in Beirut. Day One Stroll past the dominating Mohammad al-Amin Mosque on your way to Gemmayzeh in the early morning to avoid the traffic crush on the furious Lebanese motorways. On the corner of Gemmayzeh Street you'll find Paul, a charming French eatery that's a Beirut mainstay and fierce adherent to the pervasive Mediterranean chic. A full meal may blow your budget, but an espresso and pastries on the patio – amidst some well-heeled high-lifers – will give you fuel and fodder for conversation as you begin a whirlwind Beirut visit. Hook up with a taxi to Hamra, home to the American University in Beirut, to connect with the young and eager leaders of Walk Beirut, an alternative tour through the city. The three and a half hour walk explores the highlights of Beirut's complicated past: Martyr's Square, the Green Line, Samir Kassir Garden and the vacant construction sites left abandoned when conflict erupted. The tour drops you off in downtown Beirut where it is easy to hoof it over to Abd el-Wahab Restaurant in Achrafieh. A local favorite, this eatery brings the best in Lebanese cuisine, like Samkeh Harra, Labneh and silky hummus. Ask for a table on the terrace to catch the night breeze and to watch the growing crowds below. With a full belly and still some cash on hand, take advantage of one of Beirut's true gems: its nightlife. Bars and clubs dot the crisscrossing streets in Hamra, many of which have outdoor patios. You can also pub-crawl your way down Gemmayzeh Street (perhaps even snagging a wee-hours snack at the famous El Chef Restaurant) and sample the variety of atmospheres available. For the sophisticated types, try The Venue. For a laid-back vibe, roll into Molly Malone's for a pint or two. For serious night owls, the party truly commences around 1 a.m. Pier 7, a popular late-night club with a retractable roof, is known for its deep-bass rhythm and its stunning architecture. Ease into the pulsing crowd, try to keep up, but pace yourself – the party will rock until 4 a.m. Day Two Begin your late-morning (or, for you ultra-indulgent sinners, early afternoon) recovery at Demo Bar, located in the heart of Gemmayzeh. The espresso is tasty, the Brie sandwiches are crisp and warm and the bartenders are tri-lingual charm artists. If you're lucky, you may even be offered a little hair-of-the-dog wine tasting or even a hitch up to the northern reaches of Lebanon where the mountains loom and the famous Cedars stand. After reviving body and mind, grab a service taxi over to the iconic Green Line to buy some cheap tickets at Beirut's main cultural center, the National Museum. Absent, of course, are any references to the religio-ethnic conflict that devastated the city in the 1970s, 80s and 90s (collective amnesia is served in large doses in Beirut), but the country's rich Greek and Phoenician roots are displayed in full-force. Peppering the austere whitewashed interior you'll find sarcophagi, well-kept relics and gilded reminders of Lebanon's ancient past. Instead of hitting the well-to-do, downtown Beirut “souks” – open-air markets where socialites and swanky shops give off the odor of pretension – hail a city bus or taxi to the gritty Mazraa neighborhood. Butcher shops, markets and people of all stripes collide in this mixed Sunni/Shi'a neighborhood. Pop into any small shawerma shop for a late lunch and listen to the banter of the day. Drag yourself back to downtown once you've had your fill of the bustling Muslim quarter and grab an evening meal and a watermelon sheesha, or water-pipe (served in a watermelon!), near the Corniche. Relax by the sea while watching young, brave Lebanese boys launch themselves into the dark, Mediterranean abyss below. Enjoy Beirut for what it is. Although in many ways still psychologically reeling from a decades-long civil war, Beirut dashes its depression each day and chooses to indulge in its relentless optimism – an attitude both cultivated and spurned on by an historical sense of what could be and what's yet to come.
