When he rose up through the ranks of the Ottoman army to become the country's governor, palaces were something of a novelty to Muhammad Ali, the so-called founder of modern Egypt. When he became its ruler he wasted no time in building them once he had the means to do so. He wasn't brought up living in palaces, so when he became ruler of Egypt no expense was spared in providing the latest gadgets and the most sumptuous furnishings for his new residences. His seat of government and official residence was in the Citadel in Cairo. The so-called “Jewel Palace,” built in 1814, and the “Harem Palace,” built in 1827, both had their own distinctive styles. In 1808, though, right at the beginning of his reign, he had built for himself a retreat away from the crowds of Cairo, with gardens leading down to the Nile. This new palace was at Shubra. Shubra el-Kheyma today is as crushed and crowded as anywhere else in the sprawling city of almost twenty million people which is modern Cairo, but in the early nineteenth century it was a rural village, far away from the centre. In travelling there, Muhammad Ali could get away from it all and indulge himself in what was a most unusual palace. Its very construction, though, drew the followers and the tradesmen and the sycophants, who wanted to be near the centre of things, so that Shubra began to grow and grow and quite quickly lost its rural aspect. Imitating the style of the Ottoman Court, Shubra palace was built as a “Garden Palace,” like many of the palaces and summerhouses to be found along the banks of the Bosporus in Istanbul. Both Turkish and Armenian architects set to work to provide Muhammad Ali with what was the latest fashion. In all there were thirteen separate buildings to the palace, but only three of them remain today. If you can imagine the large square courtyard of a mosque, then fill it with water, you have some idea of the design of one of them, the so-called “Fountain Palace." The four separate pavilions of this building, each in its own whimsical style, which surrounded a large marble-lined pool, had views from the windows which created the impression of the whole palace being set on water. Fountains added to the theme, with 24 marble crocodiles spraying out water to the amazement of visitors. In the centre of the pool was a stage intended for Opera performances. And it was visitors who were meant to be impressed. As well as being used as a private retreat by Muhammad Ali and other members of the newly created royal family, the Shubra palace was an official guest house for foreign dignitaries, and so it remained right to the middle of the twentieth century, when the Free Officers put an end to private palaces. Gamal Abdel Nasser and the Free Officers, like Muhammad Ali at the start of his reign, were also not used to palaces either, and many of the royal residences were allowed to fall into neglect. In the 1930's, parts of the palace had been cut off to provide land for the Cairo-Alexandria Agricultural Road. After the miltary coup of 1952 which expelled King Farouk, Shubra Palace, with its 150 acres of garden sweeping down to the Nile, was given in part to the Faculty of Agriculture of Ain Shams University. Agriculture, though, was the speciality of the professors, not palaces with gold mirrors. As a result, Shubra Palace fell into a considerable decline. It was only recently, in our own day, that an Executive decision was made to restore all the former royal palaces to their true glory, and the Ministry of Culture began its work. Shubra Palace today is as splendid an example of a nineteenth century royal residence as any to be found. The palace area, which is now separate from the university, has been beautifully restored. Open at times to members of the public, the different pavilions around the ornamental pool will be seen by those who visit them in the full glory in which they were meant to be seen. There are ideas afoot to use the palace for international conferences. On a hot summer evening or a balmy August day, the water would lend tranquility and calm to any conference, giving an Oriental feel and a chance to escape from the heated debate or academic musing going on inside. The buildings themselves are decorated in European style, although the architectural style still maintains the resemblance of something Islamic. Muhammad Ali was trying to bring Egypt to a par with Europe, as many of her wealthiest have always tried to do, but at least he tried to maintain keeping some of its own distinctive features. The drawing room, for example, has an exceptionally beautiful wood parquet floor, with inlaid designs. Paintings of Muhammad Ali and his family are to be seen throughout. The last occupant of Shubra Palace was Princess Aziza Hassan, a granddaughter of Khedive Ismail. During the First World War, it was rumoured that the British were going to use parts of her palace for military purposes, so she had them destroyed! If the royal family couldn't use the palace, then no one would. Muslims read in the Holy Quran in Surat Al-Hadid: Know you (all), that the life of this world is but play and amusement, pomp and mutual boasting and multiplying (in rivalry) among yourselves, riches and children. Here is a similitude: how rain and the growth which it brings forth delight (the hearts of) the tillers; soon it withers; you will see it grow yellow; then it becomes dry and crumbles away. But in the Hereafter is a penalty severe (for the devotees of wrong). And forgiveness from Allah and (His) good pleasure (for the devotees of Allah). And what is the life of this world, but goods and chattels of deception? (Holy Quran 57:20) As with so many of the excesses of Egypt's royal family, and of some of Egypt's rulers since, the extremely wealthy were allowed to amuse themselves while the extremely poor had to scramble for bread to eat. Their palace is now a part of the Faculty of Agriculture! It is a lesson for all of us that there is more to this life than amusing ourselves. Take a trip, then, by metro to Shubra. In visiting the palace we would do well to take heed of that important message. If we don't, like the palace at Shubra, all of it may be taken from us and it will be too late to do anything about it.
British Muslim writer, Idris Tawfiq, is a lecturer at Al-Azhar University. The author of eight books about Islam, he divides his time between Egypt and the UK as a speaker, writer and broadcaster. You can visit his website at www.idristawfiq.com.
