CAIRO: Alexandria is a city of culture, learning and especially imagination. It is where Euclid developed geometry, where Eratosthenes calculated the circumference of the Earth, and where Egypt's revolutionary flame was ignited last year with the death of Khaled Said. Near mystical tales of Cleopatra VII and Alexander the Great are set in this trading port on the Mediterranean Sea. Centuries of history are scattered throughout Alexandria's streets, but many of its greatest treasures are buried beneath them, or are submerged underwater. While a vivid imagination is needed to appreciate the city's former glory, there are still plenty of physical sites on offer to whet the appetite. Alexandria deserves to have more than just one day dedicated to exploring its history and charms, but a fleeting visit is certainly possible. The main train station is a great place to start, especially for those making their way from Cairo on an early morning train. Tickets for the 2.5 hour journey should cost between 25-52 LE depending on the type of train and class of carriage. A short walk from the station leads to the marble-terraced Roman Amphitheatre which was built in the 2nd Century AD and is a one-of-a-kind in Egypt. It was discovered while building the foundations for apartment buildings, and there are still excavations being made. The nearby site of Pompey's Pillar can be reached with a meandering stroll through one of Alexandria's markets. Early to mid-morning is the best time to experience the bustle and to see the multitude of goods on offer from fish to home wares to clothing. Pompey's pillar is the only one of the city's ancient sites still intact. Constructed from granite, it reaches a height of 30 meters. Sphinxes, statues and ruins of the Serapeum temple surround the pillar; and it was here, where the overflow of books from Alexandria's ancient library were stored when the original site reached full capacity. Another easy walk leads to the Catacombs, perhaps Alexandria's most intriguing site. These were discovered in 1900 when a donkey fell through the ground above the tombs. Able to accommodate in excess of 300 bodies, the tombs reach a depth of 35 meters over three tiers including burial chambers, a banquet hall and a central hole, through which the corpses were lowered. Its design fuses Roman, Greek and Pharaonic styles – and in one case, portraying the deity Anubis in a Greco-Egyptian fashion. There are a number of ways to reach the Alexandrian coast from the Catacombs by foot and a wander through the lively streets leading to the sea is an enjoyable way to spend the late morning, especially if the route includes the grand marble structure of the Memorial for the Unknown Soldier. From the seafront, it is a 40 minute stroll or short microbus or taxi journey to Fort Qaitbey, built on the site of Pharos Lighthouse, a Wonder of the Ancient World. In the spring or summer, locals and visitors lounge on the narrow surrounding beach, or swim in the sea. Rundown buildings and a noisy street make the Corniche less attractive than it could be, but this is eclipsed by the beautiful view of the Mediterranean. The red granite pillars placed near the outside walls of Fort Qaitbey are said to be from the remains of Pharos Lighthouse which was destroyed in an earthquake in 1303 AD. The highlight of the fort is the picturesque view of the harbor and the glistening disk-shaped library in the distance. Bibliotheca Alexandria, which opened in 2002, does not hold quite the significance of the ancient library, but is certainly worth a visit and is an appreciated revival of the cultural and learning roots of the city. The outside is adorned with letters and symbols from all recorded alphabets, and the inside includes a number of exhibits, galleries and museums. The final stop provides a chance to unwind. A 20 minute taxi or microbus trip east, over Stanley Bridge ends in Montazah Palace and Gardens. Montazah was built by Khedive Abbas Hilmy as a summer residence, and the gardens and beach are a relaxing and picturesque place to unwind and watch the sunset. And an excellent way to finish your day in Alexandria.
