Soybeans, bamboo and charcoal materials are not the usual elements used in the multi-billion dollar fashion industry. And most people have probably never even heard of this. At least they are not common, but earlier this year, Simplicio designer Michael Luis presented a collection of menswear that was made entirely with natural materials, including the above mentioned in a move toward the greening of fashion. As the global economy continues to shatter in the midst of the financial crisis, fashion designers are taking the opportunity to go “green.†The environment has become the “in†for many of these international icons that seek to change the way people view fashion and the environment. It is a win-win situation that has already seen a number of catwalks go natural, from LA to Kuala Lumpur. Not to worry, innovation and originality are not being left aside as designers are finding chemical free adaptations that are hoping to attract those new aficionados who are looking for environmentally friendly clothes. Still, less than one in five high-end shoppers even know that “green†is part of the industry, says the market-research firm NDP Group. Despite up from 6 percent four years earlier, the firm reported that only one percent of consumer sales were “green.†In January 2008, FutureFashion revealed that green is moving up and is becoming vogue in the fashion world. This show, organized by New York-based nonprofit Earth Pledge, inspired a number of designers to work with sustainable fabrics for the first time. Since then, myriad shows globally have slowly pushed eco-friendly into wider recognition. High-end specialty store Barneys has already made a major commitment to sustainable design with their commissioning of exclusive green lines from Theory, 3.1 Phillip Lam and Stella McCartney. Last month, their Christmas windows and catalog was dedicated to green fashion, showing that despite the small fraction of the current industry, green is growing; and growing quickly. Showing just how far green has come, eco-conscious designer Rogan Gregory won the prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award for rising talent. This has signaled to designers that style and sustainability can go together and together they can achieve much. For the average shopper, most recognizable brands have been moving green. Lines at Banana Republic, Guess, H&M and Target have launched environmentally friendly clothes available at their stores worldwide. What do the new age designers use? Although most elements used in garments are readily available in organic form – synthetic cotton and organic cotton are virtually indistinguishable from another once woven into the piece – some materials, such as stretch nylon, have yet to find their natural equivalent. Every little action helps create a new world that is sustainable and can move forward without fearing the proverbial reaper. Hollywood stars such as Leonardo Di Caprio have arrived on the bandwagon to promote environmental awareness. They have called on people to start living green in an effort to limit the effects of global warming factors that threaten to rip apart the globe. Fashion is following, albeit slowly, in that endeavor. At this year’s Fashion Week, Aveda took green to heart and created the “Green Backstage†program that was meant to raise eco-friendly practices by partnering with influential designers to transform backstage areas into less impactful areas. Participating were heavyweights Kate and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte, Alexander Wang, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi for Preen and Lim. Each designer agreed to print all programs and show invitations on paper containing post-consumer recycled content; replace bottle water backstage with New York tap water in non-toxic aluminum SIGG bottles, eliminating 400 plastic water bottles, serve organic, locally sourced foods to models, stylists, makeup artists and production staff; and to eliminate the use of fur in the show and in retail. Many consumers are asking how they can joint the “green revolution.†Aveda gives that opportunity. The beauty company launched the Caps Recycling Program that collects the hard plastic caps used on beverage and shampoo bottles that cities and municipalities do not reuse. “Most cities do not recycle caps because there's not a very [big] market for them,” said Elle Maguire, vice-president of global communications for Aveda, in an interview posted on their Web site. “They're made from a harder plastic that ends up as waste. We believe that the beauty industry uses so many caps collectively that we could inspire change.” Through partnerships with schools and Girl Scout troops, the company has collected more than 80,000 pounds of plastic caps to date. “We've produced an entire product using the plastic from the caps, which is our 30th anniversary Vintage Clove Shampoo,” said Evan Miller, director of environmental media for Aveda. The next product to get this recycled packaging is the brand's Color Conserve Shampoo and Conditioner. So the next time there is a chance to be looking through the shampoo rack, think green and go Aveda, at least that is the concept. While experts argue it is still years away from being a true force to reckon with, the rise of the influential global environmentalist movement has shown itself to be a factor that designers will have to deal with; and soon. BM
