There's a reason dining options in City Stars tend towards the bland. Over-stimulated by the crush of mercantile options; overwhelmed by the nagging of bug-eyed kids; over-antagonized by the mass of regional summer shoppers in all their shapes and sizes, City Stars visitors, particularly parents, need a break. Thus the restaurants you find there tend to provide a quiet haven, a moment of escape from an otherwise frenzied experience. And so, perhaps, they tend toward the mild, the predictable, the middle of the road. Soothing rather than sizzling is their aim. Certainly it came as a surprise, therefore, to discover exquisite food under City Stars' cavernous roof. And exquisite is the surprising—but deserved—label that must be accorded to the Mexican joint On the Border, on the 4th floor of the family restaurant section of Phase 2, just above H&M. The first taste you'll encounter at On the Border is the salsa. They keep on replenishing your supply, along with delightful chips that accompany it, and chances are you'll return to this marvelous concoction throughout your meal. If you've ever tried to make or buy salsa, you'll know there's more to successful salsa than meets the eye. For truly satisfying salsa is an art, not craft, much more easily flunked than aced. And the salsa at On the Border is superb; fresh tomatoes, spicy enough to give it a kick, not so spicy to make it impossible for the kids. And the chips that go with it are superb. Some American friends, with access to the vaunted American commissary superstore down in Maadi, try to convince me that the Tostitos and salsa they find there are the best. Not so. The best chips and salsa in Cairo are undoubtedly served up at City Stars. There's a chasm of difference between Mexican food as served up on the streets of Mexico and the trifling version served up in American Tex-Mex joints. Well, the quality of On the Border's salsa oozes the real thing. All of the normal Mexican offerings are here: sizzling fajitas, still cooking as they arrive at your table; enchiladas, tacos or burritos wrapping up rice and chicken or beef; the sumptuously fried chimichangas; various grilled meats. All are served with a spicy range of accompaniments, especially the decadent guacamole, a delightful mix of avocado, tomato, lime and onions, in addition to sour cream. We went for the tasty double layer quesadillas and the shredded brisket taco. The brisket was a find: tender, moist, understated. We went with family, and so ordered just as extensively off the dessert menu; the apple crisp and brownie sundae were a hit. The only disappointment at On the Border was the drinks. On the Border's food is so fresh, so legitimate, it would have gone perfectly with a real fresh margarita. Well the margarita they produced was of course non-alcoholic, but also sickly sweet and processed, and didn't do justice to the food. However, let this pass. You can't expect the real Oaxaca in City Stars. What there is is still mighty good. Details: City Stars, 4th Floor Phase 2; 2480 2564; www.ontheborder.com; Lunch for 2: under LE200. Open every day 11am to midnight, lunch specials until 4pm. !--Session data--
