Restaurant review: Some like it hot Gamal Nkrumah ascends to muy caliente, the rooftop hotspot, to sample Latin American delicacies The fresh salmon seared to perfection was out of this world. My thrill at the prospect of realising my ambition to indulge in it was so obvious that the bar attendants welcomed me with unaffected smiles. El-Mojito is the latest addition at the Nile Hilton to the Spanish craze among Cairenes. For me, muy caliente, Spanish for hotspot, was a dream come true: a Latino bar-cum- restaurant with live entertainment on the banks of that most eternal of rivers, the Nile. The ambiance, the panoramic backdrop and the food all combine to make for an unrivalled experience. The succulent peach-coloured juices melted in my mouth. The entire experience was quite simply divine. Churraqueira (Brazilian for "one's own grill at home"), offers beef tenderloin, à la Brazilien, which I was told was superb and mouthwateringly tender. But their menu is not restricted to meat -- fish-lovers are just as fond of the heavenly treats of the Brazilian churrasco barbecue as the meat-eaters. Carnivores naturally relish this unique and masterful manner of preparing clean-cut flesh. Fresh salmon, Norwegian I was assured, came in the captivating form of plump steaks. I am not squeamish about the farm-grown varieties, but I was enlightened about the delectable fish's origins: apparently it was caught from the freezing waters of the North Sea. Salmon, in any case, is my favourite fish. Were it not for the mojitos and the scrumptious churrasco -- and my budget, I would have tried all the different engaging tapas (appetisers). I am not too keen on the tapas frias -- cold starters. I much prefer the hellishly hot tapas calientes. Albôndigas, succulent meatballs in a wicked sugarcane sauce, were devilishly delectable. The Thai-style fish croquettes drenched in a scrumptious curry dip were absolutely divine. On offer was the Red Sea crab and avocado cangrejo de mar y aguacate -- indescribable, heavenly. Tortilla pasena, a traditional Spanish potato and vegetable omlette, was yet another delicious entrée on the menu. Another tasty hot starter is the pan de ajo con cecina -- air-dried beef on toast, complete with balsamic reduction. The headwaiter recommended the solomillo a la parilla con salsa de champiñoes, a tapa of diced veal with mushroom sauce. I thought it a bit much. The pimientos rellenos de ternera are veal-stuffed roasted bell-peppers with a spicy tomato dip. The roasted garlic-caper aioli calamares fritos con dos salsas was most tempting. As was the tempura de verduras -- vegetable tempura with soy sauce. But let me return to the main fare at El-Mojito -- the churrasquera delights. These are the most inviting of the entrees and should not be overlooked among the many other wonders. The seabass, for example, is indescribably palatable, and daubed in the subtle flavours of delicate herbs, luscious in its own juices. Seafood choices come complete with enticing sauces of shellfish juices. Desserts, too, are inviting. I opted for El-Tropical -- guava cheese cake, served with a delicious fruit salsa. Azteca sounded terribly rich. Azteca consisted of a bounteous chocolate cake topped with a yummy chocolate mousse. The desserts, no matter how agreeable, do not compare with the beverages, both alcoholic and non- alcoholic. There is a wide range of fresh juices -- mango, orange and strawberry and freshly brewed regular, Turkish and decaffeinated coffee. However, nothing beats the refreshing range of mojito cocktails. Request no sugar. Russian mojito and tequila mojito are mind-spinning elixirs. The tropical mojito -- Bacaradi rum, crème de banane, lime, and fresh mint sprigs -- is quite simply divine, not to say hellishly wicked. For teetotalers, there is the virgin mojito which is comprised of mojito syrup, mint leaves, lime and soda. The hot mint tea, too, was divine. El-Mojito Sky Lounge Nile Hilton Tel: 02 2780 444 - 02 2780 666 Dinner for two: LE200