Restaurant review: A second look Gamal Nkrumah samples raw Japanese-style tuna and salmon rolls with a Brazilian spin Mori stands out from other Cairene raw fish emporiums in that it does Japanese specialties but with a Brazilian twist. This particular Zamalek eatery is self-consciously trendy -- an unusual spot to savour a dinner à deux. In spite of its swish contemporary lines of comfortable seats and one or two armchairs and sofas, it has a genuinely light and warm feel. Mori fuses Japanese and Brazilian elements in clever combinations, that are both visually appealing -- a hallmark of Japanese cuisine -- and delicious. Forward- thinking and experimental chefs, perhaps, but do not associate Mori with cutting-edge cuisine. The daring mix of influences nevertheless yields curiously delectable results. There is much on offer to tantalise your palate, and the restaurant attracts the younger members of the Japanese community in Cairo, so one must assume that the dishes on offer are reasonably authentic. In short, while not quite gourmet heaven, the relaxingly and informal Mori is the perfect setting for an enjoyable evening. Mori is spare though stylish -- Japanese characters in bold crimson set against the striking black interior add a certain je ne sais quoi. The walls were daubed in an outlandish dark grey, softened by a motley of glassware of all colours, shapes and sizes. The menu is an eye-catching incandescent lime green, that contrasts sharply with the black tables, tablecloths, chairs -- even the napkins are a most severe black. Not so long ago, Mori was the Living Room. My review of that restaurant was barely six months ago. Little did I know then that I would return to these very premises to review it again as an eatery serving sushi and other Japanese entrées a la Braziliennes. At the end of a delightful meal, the mint-flavoured toothpicks, I was a little surprised to discover, were that of the old Living Room -- a quaint vestige of the not so distant past. The seas and oceans surrounding Japan team with fish of all kinds. And the entire essence of Japanese cuisine is inextricably intertwined with the principle of freshness. The proprietors, Tamer El-Leithi and Hossam Fahmi grabbed the Egypt rights of this global franchise and have done a good job running the burgeoning trendy Brazilian Japanese-styled eatery. The staff are friendly -- they invariably greet you with a ready but genuine smile. The innovative menu of this self-consciously trendy Japanese-styled eatery has plenty of intriguing options. A note of caution though: the quality of the sushi is passable, but far from perfect. While in Cairo, one does not realistically expect straight from the surf seafood; one makes do with a modicum of freshness. Mori, moreover, is not a place to indulge in a feeding frenzy. Images of the nigiri sushi attractively displayed on the colourful menu were mouthwateringly enticing. Ebi, prawns; sake, salmon; maguro, tuna (both raw and seared); tako, octopus; ungi, eel; ika, squid; ikura, and, finally, red salmon caviar. I stuck to smoked eel and octopus. I shied away from the hot roll tempura -- futo make : giant rolls with a scrumptious roasted seaweed coat enveloping six pieces of salmon, mushrooms, cream cheese and diced shrimp -- not too authentically Japanese, I reckoned. The Portuguese introduced tempura, battered and deep fried seafood and vegetables to Japan -- an oily aberration to an otherwise supremely healthy traditional Japanese diet. I also rejected the dynamite salmon with cheese ; ura sake. Even the mono sake and ebi (salmon and shrimp) was not enticing enough. The sashimi, however, looked like a far more inviting option. There was the audo and sato roll -- octopus, caviar, lemon and sesame rolled with tuna. Then there was the acelga sake -- minced salmon, chives and sushi rice. And, the acelga sake and ebi, sprinkled with diced shrimp. I opted instead for the suimono -- Japanese clear seafood soup: it was far from authentic. The crabsticks and dollops of soy sauce lended the soup a surreal taste. The two prawns floating listlessly were not quite as tasty as I had imagined: they were overcooked for starters. I passed on the chirashi sushi -- a bowl packed with sushi rice and topped with sesame and mixed sashimi. Soy mayonnaise and cream cheese again, oh, and avocado -- I guess that was the Brazilian bestowal ? The beverage list, too, was not convincingly authentic; indeed, it did not even bother to pretend that to be Japanese, with cherry- flavoured tea, cappuccino, ristretto, café latté... Perhaps that was the legacy of The Living Room? Mori Al-Gabalaya street, Zamalek Dinner for two: LE250
