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Fashionably yours
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 23 - 08 - 2007

Amira El-Noshokaty sought out one of Cairo's most accomplished fashion designers, to return with pearls of wisdom for the uninitiated
While cover girls parade their flawless bodies in blinding floodlights to wide acclaim, fashion for most remains on the edge of the real. Whether it becomes part of your reality or not depends not only on how much you have but equally on what you look like. For Egyptian fashion designer Hisham Abul-Ela, however, variety rules. On the occasion of presenting his seasonal line, the man with eight years of experience with the Milan fashion house Moschino gave Al-Ahram Weekly some very realistic tips and tricks.
General guidelines:
First you must know what kind of figure you have. If you are slim but short, contrary to popular belief, a short skirt will make you look taller. If you are slim and tall, you can get away with anything. But say you're chubby and tall. The first thing to keep in mind is that a dress is not a good idea. Try a two-piece suit to enhance your waistline while hiding unwanted "detail".
"I use stretch fabrics because they hide fleshy areas but enhance shape," Abul-Ela said. Dresses and skirts that are evasse -- that is, A-shaped -- will help conceal large hips. Indeed, if you are thus endowed, trousers remain your best choice, but if you must wear a short skirt, keep it tight. Avoid the long-blouse-on-top-of-tights look whatever you do. Broad shoulders are a different story: tops, strapless or not are okay, but never forget that a small bolero could make your shoulders look much narrower. If you feel your shoulder-line is too narrow, on the other hand, go for a halter neck. Now, dark colours make for a slimmer look whatever the case: brown, deep red and navy blue as well as black. Nor do colours like purple and burgundy make those with dark skin look darker -- not the worst crime in the history of humanity, anyway. Feel free.
What's in this season?
Look at shop windows and you'll see: the flowerier the better. Yet Abul-Ela says this is a disgracefully local standpoint. "Global trends also stress metallic tops with latex accessories, metal and mirror-like ornaments to go with them. And the Roman style is in, too, as are the balloon-style dresses that you rarely see in Egypt. But if you must follow the flower craze, go for those dresses that are, in effect, long blouses. In general, think 1940s and 1950s. Think Marilyn Monroe. But there's also punk chic; remember Madonna in the 1980s? Well, that -- but with a twist. Leather jackets and puff shirts..."
This year, in short, is all about variety; you can wear virtually what you like. If anything, it is the short evening dress that takes the prize. But Abul-Ela urges women to think individually. "The idea is to create your own look, something that makes other people copy you." The most important tip -- personalise. Say you're wearing jeans and a top. Borrow your mum's jacket and a vintage bag and you're ready to go. Uniqueness, paradoxically, is the name of the game. "In Egypt women lack this kind of transgressive imagination. In London, if you sit and watch people go by, it's hard to see two people who look alike." Even fashion houses apply this concept. "Dolce & Gabbana and the like actually shop for ideas at the Portobello Road Market where there is much vintage material on sale. That's how they create a new look." And this season, everything goes. As Abul-Ela said: you can wear the 1980s coloured jeans with the platforms, on a leather jacket or a nice white shirt and be fashion.
Tricks of the trade:
If you are a bit overweight, avoid leggings and tight clothes. Avoid jeans with beads or any form of embroidery. No more small bags. The bigger, well, the better. Avoid too much embroidered material. Keep it simple: one accessory at a time. You don't want to be a Christmas tree. No shade is big enough. Think huge sunglasses. Hats are in. Ballet shoes are out. Wear platforms with crystal, wooden or metal heels. Avoid crop trousers (pantacour). They're no longer as trendy as ankle trousers, which are shorter than regular and longer than crop. These forms of trousers come in high wastes. And remember: When you go shopping, check the cut first, then look out for fabric, colour and pattern. For a graceful look, if you are wearing a shirt with a pattern or picture on it, keep the pattern on the upper part of the body. As for flowery skirts, go for either very small or very big patterns. If you have chubby legs, stick with pants.
Next winter lines will include electric blue with silver tints, as well as white, beige, black, mauve and red. Fabric is a mixture of latex, trulle and metallic cloth. All is shine -- especially where leather is concerned. And feathers flutter in the air, recalling 1940s Hollywood glamour.
As for men, if you think you are slim or a little too slim, wear your exact fit. Anything bigger will make you look emaciated. No fan of the gym, stick with long sleeves and light colours. Never forget: large men do not wear T-shirts. And Bermuda shorts are very fashionable this season, even in the evening.


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