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Restaurant review: No more than a bite
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 24 - 01 - 2008


Restaurant review:
No more than a bite
Gamal Nkrumah revels in the pure pleasure of simple sandwich and salad
It is one of those inconspicuous Cairo cafés. If one were giving directions in maze-like Zamalek, one would easily miss it. Except that it is next to the island- suburb's Alfa supermarket and one could hardly miss that place. Picasso is also close to another fairly obvious Zamalek landmark -- the Om Kolthoum Tower.
The strangest thing about the Picasso Café is that it reminds one more of Renoir, the French artist, rather than the Spanish master. Pierre-Auguste Renoir had an eye for simple pleasures, sheer beauty and boundless joy. And, that is how I would best describe the Picasso. There is something of Le Bal au Moulin de la Galette, Renoir's famous masterpiece, about this particular Zamalek eatery.
I cannot put my finger on it, but there is nothing at Picasso to hint at the Spanish genius himself, except perhaps the posters of one or two of his paintings. And, there is a charming portrait of Picasso himself. This café is all about impressionists and has nothing to do with abstract paintings. No Skull and Pitcher, no Guernica at Picasso.
As for the food, it is also basic fare. Forget about a filling and fancy meal at Picasso's. It has down-to-earth made-to-order sandwiches and pastries. A wide selection of coffees for coffee aficionados, including Starbucks, but Picasso's is not bad either.
The sandwiches did not disappoint. Fresh bread, straightforward and frank fillings -- you-get-what-you- see sort of food. Value-packed wholesome homemade sandwich with big and bouncy bite is what you get.
The steaming hot chocolate, always a favourite of mine, was not as good as it should have been; there was something chocolate about it, but something unchocolatey about it too. Indeed, I tend to judge cafés by their chocolate rather than their coffees. Picasso's hot chocolate was not as creamy as Costa's, which made for heaven in the mouth.
The fashionable youth thronging about Picasso's does not diminish its simple charms. Yes, perhaps that is why the place reminds me of a Renoir, or the Dance at Moulin de la Galette, to be precise. It is the expressions on the faces of the clientele, the sheer pleasure, and the almost innocent sensuality of it all. Joie de vivre is a notion that springs to mind, indeed at Picasso's it is palpable. Was it the pure joy of simple eating? Or perhaps, I was just in an upbeat frame of mind.
The salads at Picasso's are interesting, but again nothing fancy. I avoided the usual tuna and Greek salads. And, I am not too fond of chicken Caesar either, which I was told is the Chef's salad. Instead, I opted for the roast beef baguette, which was edible.
The sandwiches differ little from those of chain outlets such as Cilantro or Costa, both in quality and as far as prices are concerned. Cilantro's sandwiches might be a tad more imaginative, but there are pretty creative creations at Picasso's too. The chicken-turkey sandwich for one. However, on the whole, Picasso's sandwiches are plain, so do not expect anything exotic -- not even the Mexican chicken.
Picasso's is not an eatery hailed for its gastronomic savoir-faire. However, if you want to nibble at something light for supper, or chat with a close friend over a coffee or nice cuppa tea, then Picasso's is the place for you. It is also ideal for a quick, light lunch. And, for that matter a breakfast or brunch. Indeed, Picasso's is open 24 hours, I was assured. The pleasant neighbourhood ensures a steady supply of customers who drop in to munch their crisp salads or hungrily devour their meaty sandwiches and gulp down their coffee and head out onto the leafy streets of Zamalek.
In many respects, Picasso's is a typically Zamalek phenomenon. The wireless Internet connection is convenient, too. Yes, cafés are mushrooming all over Cairo, but those of Zamalek have a certain feel. Still, the ambiance is unmistakably Renoir, don't ask me why.
Picasso's
6 Al-Adel Abu Bakr Street
Snack for two: LE55
Tel: 2735 0074


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