Restaurant review: Pots and kettles Gamal Nkrumah stumbles across one of Cairo's best kept secrets Dubbed the "Jewel of Zamalek", Longchamps is one of those cryptic eateries that will not leave one out of pocket after a nourishing meal. Tucked away in an inauspicious but masterfully-managed family-run hotel in one of Zamalek's most distinguished thoroughfares, not many people in Zamalek, let alone more distant districts of Cairo, have heard about Longchamps. However, those who do never hesitate to return. The service is exceptionally welcoming and the waiters are eager to please without being overbearing. They do not hover around, loitering about when they are not wanted. Still, one just has to lift a finger and a smiling face will be at the table asking in a most courteous manner what one's needs are. I had the distinct feeling that the waiters and chefs were hand-picked by the proprietress Madam Heba Bakri and her right hand woman, the enchanting German manageress Andrea. Longchamps is a charming, quaint restaurant. It is on the fifth floor of a nondescript building. Dinner is served from 6pm to 9pm. We are starting lunch late, so we order before we chat further. "I suppose I should have chosen something posher than this," I ventured. Longchamps is spotlessly clean, however, and is exceptionally comfortable. You can eat out on the delightful terrace -- actually there are two of them, and I fell instantly in love with both. The main restaurant itself is engulfed in warm colours and an inviting soft glow of orange and russet. The dark wood only accentuates the warmth this eatery exudes. My partner likes her steak very rare, sort of bleeding. I am somewhat intrigued, I would have suspected that she is the vegetarian sort of woman. Well, as the old adage goes, appearances can be deceptive. My partner is busy soaking up the burgundy juice from her filet aux poivre, and requests a spoon to help speed her up. The waiter raises an eyebrow, and I begin to wonder whether I am dining with a vampire. I shrug off the eerie thought and dig into my own escalope Longchamps, no bloody juices there. The chef Kamel also excels with his kebab halla, veal cubes with spring onions cooked slowly on a gentle fire. Fish, however, must be ordered 24 hours in advance -- and that, too, goes for dishes not on the menu. "Tell us in advance and we'd prepare anything you fancy," Andrea chuckled. "We can even arrange for birthday parties or special private gatherings and you can have either of the terraces all to yourself, but give us a few day's notice," she hastens to add. An intriguing aspect of this cheery restaurant is that the menu tells you how long it takes for certain dishes to prepare. For instance, the French onion soup takes 20 minutes to prepare. The 20-minute wait for the escalope Longchamps was well worth it. The meat was tender and not oozing grease as it is often the case in many a Cairene restaurant. There was no gristle and no fat. The lentil soup served with traditional Egyptian bread is superb. Mayonnaise-free Nicoise salad is highly recommended. The freshly-squeezed orange juice is delectable. Dessert is simple fare, nothing elaborate, they tend towards the healthy treats. The fruit salad is seasonal, but always delicious and refreshing. The Om Ali -- the rich Egyptian version of bread and butter pudding, studded with raisins and nuts -- looked scrumptious, though we demurred, concerned about our waistlines. The food at Longchamps is basic, nothing fancy, albeit wholesome. It is the kind of restaurant where you cannot go wrong. The dishes are always to your satisfaction, and prepared just the way you want them to be. The terrace décor could use some sprucing up, but Longchamps is cosy, and the intimate setting tempts one to linger well after the customer has gulped down his or her meal. It truly is one of Zamalek's best kept secrets. Longchamps, Longchamps Hotel 21 Ismail Mohamed Street, Zamalek Tel: 2735 2311 Dinner for two: LE200
