Restaurant review: Ruby rhapsody By the end of the sumptuous repast, all three of us had left our hearts at Noble House, recalls Gamal Nkrumah The first thing I notice is the mingling of Chinese and Egyptian voices indoors. The second is the dramatic combination of black and ruby red of the décor. What caught my attention was the respect all the waiters have for my adolescents. All the waiting staff bedecked in black and the most piercing blood red is as attentive to my adolescent sons as they are to me. The interior happens to be both eye-catching and comfortable. It appears that it has had a tad too much spent on it, but it is becoming. The low lighting accentuates the melodramatic glow of red and black motif and in the distance we watch the dexterous albeit combustible stratagem of Chef Kirbie Chang with the Teppanyaki flaming onion volcano. For a moment it feels like the Noble House is on fire. Pleasantries are exchanged over the complimentary green tea. Tea Master Tao Qiang, a native of Shanghai, demonstrates his exceptional skills of pouring the "welcome cup" of green tea much to the delight of my sons. From his long-necked teakettle he deftly pours the piping hot golden liquid into the tiny tea bowls from the distance of a metre and a half -- a small miracle of sorts. Refreshed, we get down to the business of the day. My sons are in buoyant mood and don't wish to spoil that. Their grades this term are better than average and so they deserve a special treat. Seafood Consommé or Miso soup with mussles, Nama Tofu, seaweed Wagame in a light broth of soya bean stock? Their academic performance is analysed amid juicy vegetarian dumplings and Kung Po stir-fried chicken. The week's highlights are raked over in some detail. Mustard lamb or Angus beef, garden vegetables and black bean soya sauce? We opt for the pan-fried lamb tenderloin, most succulent and deliciously lean, stir- fried vegetables and mustard soya sauce. That went down very well. The succulent lamb tastes like it was caramalised with honey, cooked very slowly in its own juices, and served with dollops of gelatinous gravy, a little syrupy. That said, I was expecting something a trifle more savoury. Tea Master Tao Qiang tiptoes to our table. "More tea?" he inquires in his most self-deprecating manner. The refills were prompt and the redoubtable tea master crept quietly away. The jasmine green tea came in a pretty porcelain pot. Karim appropriates the Yong Chow fried rice peppered with chunky chicken and plump prawns. Youssef shares the wok-fried Hammour fish, capsicum, pine nuts and shallot concoction with me. Duties and responsibilities are addressed over green tea ice cream dessert. This traditional Japanese delight is made of the matcha variety of green tea, specific to certain Japanese green tea ceremonies. Karim adores it, but Youssef is not too sure what to make of it. He enjoys something more robust in flavour as far as drinks are concerned. "What a show," he whispers, pointing at the tea master. "But can I have strawberry juice instead?" Karim interrupts. "Not in Noble House, later in the foyer of the hotel perhaps," he snaps. A waiter appears out of nowhere. He profusely apologised for the interruption, before returning seconds later to complete our order. We politely decline the Teppanyaki set menu. I was not sure whether Karim and Youssef would appreciate that delectable style of Japanese cuisine, as it is a rather adult affair. I was sure, though, that they would delight in watching the chef tossing and turning the food in the unique Japanese iron plates, or teppan. We opt instead for the Hoi Sin Duck, a house specialty. The rich gravy compliments perfectly the scrumptious duck breast. Noble House Fairmont Heliopolis Orouba Street, Heliopolis, Cairo Tel: 2267 7730 Lunch for three: LE490
