With a story behind every tomb, there is more to Cairo's cemeteries than meets the eye, says Ahmed Abu Ghazala Egypt's history is packed with figures who have affected the country's history in different ways, and perhaps the best way to remember them and their accomplishments is to visit their tombs. A visit to Cairo's cemeteries makes a fascinating day out, these being constructed in a style different from that of any other cemetery in the world today. The Al-Ghafeer (guard) cemetery in Cairo is famous for hosting the tombs of many of Egypt's former royal family, though these are sometimes not well kept. On the cemetery walls, a banner proclaims the names of Mohamed Ibrahim Suleiman and Heidar El-Boghdadi, the MPs who represent the area in parliament, and inside there is the richly decorated tomb of Princess Shwikar, first wife of King Fouad. However, negligence has blackened the stone, the tomb lies in the middle of a square that is often full of traffic, and a stray dog lives inside the tomb with those who take care of it. Elsewhere in the cemetery there is the tomb of Queen Nariman, the last queen of Egypt, wife of King Farouk, and mother of the last king, Ahmed Fouad. Her tomb, painted green and white, attracts the eyes of passers-by. According to Mohamed Salah, who takes care of the tombs, other members of the former royal family are also buried in the tomb. A short distance from the Al-Ghafeer is the Martyrs' Cemetery, which is built in a modern style with tombs in marble and works of art interspersed among the graves. In this area, there are the graves of important figures from Egyptian history, such as that of president Mohamed Naguib, the country's first president, and Ahmed Ismail, a former minister and one of the planners of the 6 October 1973 War against Israel. The graves of other military officers illustrate different periods in Egyptian history, including the 1948 War, in which Arab armies were defeated by Israel, the 1956 War, in which Egypt triumphed over Great Britain, France and Israel, the 1967 War, in which Egypt lost the Sinai, and the 1973 War, in which the Sinai was regained. Other graves include those of officers killed in civil incidents, such as during the downing of an EgyptAir plane over the Atlantic in 1999. Next to the Martyrs' Cemetery is the tomb of Omar Makram, one of the most important figures in Egypt's history, who supported Mohamed Ali in his bid to take control of the country in 1805. Salah comments that there is a sculpture of the Quran in marble in Makram's tomb. Since the complex is so large, part of it is now used as a nursery and play area for children living in the area. Along the adjoining poorly paved road are other tombs, many of them beautifully decorated and belonging to some of the country's leading families, such as the El-Wakkad family. The tomb of Mahmoud Fahmi El-Noqrashi, a former prime minister and one of the leaders of the 1919 Revolution, lies in this area. El-Noqrashi was assassinated by a member of the Muslim Brotherhood in December 1948. Some distance away is the tomb of the Khedive Tawfik, the sixth ruler of Egypt to come from the Mohamed Ali family, as well as the tombs of his wife, Amina Hanem El-Hami, his son, the Khedive Abbas Helmi, and other members of the family. Yet, despite the beauty of the gardens inside the tomb complex and the splendid buildings of the tombs themselves, the outer walls have deteriorated and the engraved words have been almost completely erased. Moreover, the area as a whole is run-down. There are damaged cars everywhere, with mechanics working on them in the open air. There is a kiosk selling tea, another selling beans and falafel, and there is graffiti on the walls. There is another banner erected on behalf of Suleiman and El-Boghdadi. People in the district call it Mahatet Al-Kawetch (the rubber station), meaning that it is a place to fix cars. Returning to Al-Ghafeer, there are some outstanding Islamic-style buildings to be seen despite the poor condition of the area. These include the tomb complex of Sultan Al-Ashraf Barsbay, who ruled Egypt in the early 15th century during the Mameluke period and is known for annexing Cyprus, and the tomb complex of Sultan Farag Ibn Barqouq, who also ruled Egypt during the Mameluke period and was famous for his cruelty. Beside these lies the most famous tomb complex in the area, that of Sultan Al-Ashraf Qaitbay, which figures on the Egyptian one pound note. According to Salah, "President Mubarak came and prayed here during the early years of his presidency, and a decision was taken to put the complex on the pound note." The area is full of domes built over the graves of important figures from the Mameluke period. A visit to the cemetery area takes a couple of hours on foot, though this is not necessarily enough to see all the tombs of interest in the area. In addition to those mentioned, these include the tombs of Abdel-Halim Hafez and Umm Kolthoum, the most famous Egyptian singers of the last century, alongside actors like the famous comedian Ismail Yassin. There are also the tombs of historical religious figures like Abu Zar El-Ghafari, one of the Prophet Mohamed's companions, as well as those of some of the members of the Prophet's family. The grave of Imam El-Shafei, one of the most famous scholars in Islamic history and the founder of the El-Shafei school of jurisprudence, is also to be found in the area. While a trip to the cemetery area is an extraordinary experience, there is a need for a well-paved road to facilitate movement and better transportation. Many of the tombs are in urgent need of restoration, and the streets should be cleaned and the political banners taken down. Without the helpful guidance of Salah, it would have been difficult to know who was buried where. A walk in the area would be improved if interpretation materials and signs could be provided, locating the entrances of the tombs of famous figures and explaining their accomplishments.
