Restaurant review: Vintage Napa Gamal Nkrumah is ushered into the ultimate of Egyptian urban chic with a Californian drift Out of California and into the fire? Bright shine may be short-lived on a wintry January afternoon, but a candlelit dinner ideal. Californian cuisine in a luxurious Cairene kitchen with fancy frills is all well and good. Except that Epiphany just doesn't seem to be the time to probe much below the surface of Californian comfort cuisine cosily nestled between two futuristic towers of the Nile City complex, the Fairmont Nile City. Egyptian Coptic Christians traditionally eat colkasia (an Egyptian tuber) at Epiphany and it is certainly not served at Napa, Chef Matthew Gilberto assured me. Entering Napa Grill is nothing like broaching a conventional restaurant. "Welcome sir," the dashing Egyptian-Italian manager George Rabbat ushers us in with a smile to unfrock a freakish abbot. As you can well imagine, the crowds were not queuing up to reserve a seat at the Napa Grill when my companion and I walked in. We sat next to a bearded lady. Her studied headmistress-look was capped off with a pair of scarlet diamanté spectacle frames identical to those sported by Marilyn Monroe in How to Marry a Millionaire. Half a dozen waiters and waitresses orbited around her. She worked the freak-show theme into a farcical comedy with crumpled skin and a mound of something that might have been human hair tossed turban-fashion on top of her limp lilac fringe. A teenage temptress, presumably her granddaughter, presented us all with something of a feast for the eye. She crossed her exquisite legs and played some peek-a-boo game with her bewhiskered grandmother. Even with tortoiseshell frames she looked less schoolteacher and more Angelina Jolie. She moved with unaffected style while the waiters were drawing breath. It was nothing but a frolic, and I took a peek at the wine list. The Napa Grill possibly has the best wine list in town. The headwaiter with short-cropped hair and dark suit beckoned as the two weird women frolicked about. We were bemused by it all. Indeed, it was a stimulating evening, occasionally gratifying. The interplay between two cultures -- Californian and Cairene -- reveals similarities and stark contrarieties. Faint winter sunshine pours through the large windows even as the air- conditioning is set so cold that my companion needs her jacket. Named after the top viticulture region of California and the entire United States, the Napa Valley, just north of the San Francisco Bay Area, conjures up creations of alcohol entrepreneurs that are of outstanding quality. The germ of Napa was seeded in the Mediterranean -- most notably Italy, France and Spain. The vineyards of the Napa Valley have a unique terroir. Organic and biodynamically grown grapes produce some of the world's most delicious wines -- brimfire in a bottle, so to speak. As for the food, I kicked off with a Red Sea crab cake. My companion preferred a French entrée. Foie gras torchon with balsamic glazed onions and brioche crostiti was her favourite hors d'oeuvre. Lemon aioli, avocado grapefruit and tomato cumin salsa were also tempting but I proceeded to order something wildly exotic. Grilled freshwater prawn with braised black beans, mango and avocado salsa was quite simply an unforgettable dish. Organic, fresh and seasonal cuisine is typical of the Napa Grill specialties. An air of reverence hangs over the place. The brown and cream décor is deceptively understated. Gracious hospitality is a lifestyle as far as the staff is concerned. Cilantro features prominently in this upmarket Californian-style eatery, with Mexican and Mediterranean undertones. Nothing on the menu is cheap, and it does require an initial outlay to dine at the Napa Grill in style. Take the plunge and complete a perfect meal with the soft-centred chocolate and lavender marshmallows and apricot ice cream as I did. Basmati rice corn crème brélée and pinenut crust was how my companion ended the evening. Napa Grill Fairmont Nile City 2005 B Corniche Al-Nil Tel: 2461 9494 Dinner for two: LE750
