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The basic pleasures
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 24 - 10 - 2002


By Injy El-Kashef extends a laughing ear
How it is possible that the tumultuous cacophony that characterises 26th of July St, Boulaq, practically stops at the slim metal gate of the Leonardo Da Vinci Institute will always remain a mystery. Not least of the innumerable sounds that drown my voice as I walk along Al-Galaa St is that of the microbus drivers as they yell out their destinations to pedestrians. One unforgettable destination I once heard being called out was to Sphinx Sq, Mohandessin, as the driver's "help", hanging out of the microbus and holding onto the door, yelled out "fesenkeeeeesssss" (yes, "fesenkes", not even "sefenkes", for Sphinx). That man had made my day back then, and I must confess that every time I am crossing that life-threatening stretch of road I extend an ear in the hope of catching another hilarious "fesenkes" to assist me in retaining my sense of humour through the impossible traffic.
The day I dined at the Italian Club I did not hear my longed-for fesenkes, and, once past the gate, could actually hear no sound of the street at all. If you are lucky enough to be allowed in by the security guard (trust me, had there been any specific criteria for admittance I would have revealed them; but the approving nod at the door seems to be completely arbitrary as far as this reviewer could tell) you will suddenly find yourself walking across a spacious and ever-so-quiet courtyard with basketball nets and parked Italian School buses on the side, surrounded by the tall, elegant building that is the Leonardo Da Vinci Institute, seen from the inside.
You will then arrive at a touchingly cozy dining area, in the open air (indoors option available though totally unnecessary weather permitting), with couples, families, and single diners of diverse nationalities enjoying some of the kitchen's delicious plates washed down with, perhaps, some reassuring Chilean wine (LE75 a bottle!), their chit chat filling the otherwise quiet night air, as of 7pm.
The waiter will come to you (I have a favourite waiter -- the interesting one, who's been around, lived in Italy, and will call a spade a spade; while my friend prefers the other one, the perhaps sweeter one, but who cannot spend a few minutes in solitary silence before he will hover around your table again and engage in yet a new conversation) and will very efficiently take your order, which will materialise in a flash. We ordered the most perfectly delicious Bruscheta in town, topped with diced tomato and onion sauce; we also had what I was once told were called Sicilian Oranges -- deep fried round shapes filled with a rice and mozzarella stuffing. We had the fried vegetables (courgettes, aubergines, peppers) -- sheer pleasures, so basic, so obvious, so simple.
We had been to the Italian Club for appetisers and drinks before, the setting being so incredibly relaxing, but this was our first for main courses. We had Scaloppini Al Limone and these were unanimously rated as probably the best meat tasted in Cairo for years. It was simply good meat -- fresh, well-seasoned, well-cooked meat. The Gnocchi with Blue Cheese Sauce were less impressive -- merely for the fact that the meat had already won our hearts -- but nevertheless succulent.
Considering the raving success of our meal so far, we ventured for dessert: creme caramel. Not eggy, not too sweet, not too big, not too small, no unnecessary additions like whipped cream and the like, just plain good old crème caramel. Wonderful meal in a delightful setting, for LE60 a head.
Italian Club, Leonardo Da Vinci Institute, Al- Galaa St (entrance from 26th July St)


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