Restaurant review: The taste of the bean Classy restrooms and plush sofas, but there is no beating the coffee I am the third wheel tonight as I play mock-chaperone to Regalteo and his striking companion, whom we lovingly refer to as Stutter-Date. Their association has not been on-again, off-again; his foothold has slipped each time he's tried to reach that first "on". Her reluctance and his impatience have conspired to reduce their progress towards eternal bliss to a series of stutter- steps, hence the moniker. We look forward to a prolonged session of emphatic smiles and nervous tics. Thankfully, a silver lining still shines: the evening's events will unfold in L'Aroma, arguably the best coffee shop in town. The café is split into three sections. Up front and overlooking the street sits an arrangement of elevated tables and stools. A couch lines the wall of the mid-section, facing the counter -- we will sit here for five hours without the slightest hint of discomfort (awkwardness being a separate issue). The place's crowning jewel however is the lounge in the back. A spacious layout of plush, sink- in sofas and armchairs huddled around low-set coffee tables, executed in arresting hues with a vibrant presence. Cold greys and dark olive greens are contrasted with firebrick and orange-red walls, and the entire space is caked with the dimmed spill from the low-hanging translucent lamps. Stutter-Date loves her coffee -- that's why we're here -- but is in a transitional phase. She has taken a leave of absence; she is finding herself, discovering what truly matters (people), getting attached to her goddaughter, and ordering lattes. Regalteo, in turn, says nothing and stares into her face, examining her features in awe and imprinting them onto his memory, no doubt for purposes of future fantasy or whimsy. Who could blame him? The last time he opened his mouth the wrong thing came out and cost him three months of face-time. So he wisely opts for reticence, and I ask for menus. The food selection is a worthy attempt at infusing some creativity into the run-of-the-mill coffee shop fare. I salute my pasta salad, with fusilli and sun-dried tomatoes, an excellent savory concoction, give it a pet name, and am sad to see it go. Most sandwiches are served on crunchy, seasoned bread, and Stutter-Date recommends the tuna. Plus there's an abbreviated pasta menu with aromatic marinara and carbonara. Regalteo is displeased with the tang of the cheesecake, but the slices are hefty (compared to the menu's generally petit portions), and bonus points must be granted for the blueberry topping. "This is a place to relax, read, or conduct business," affirms manager Youssry Abdel-Galil. Feeling acutely dispensable I have left the couple to their anemic courtship and am learning more about this hotspot. He talks of maintaining standards, vying with the six-month half life, and keeping the music down (a surprisingly fantastic selection of yesteryear's pop favourites). He tells tales of the dauntless valour of the select bean which came all the way from Italy, relying solely on owner Nader Montasser's mentorship, to gratify local taste buds. Whatever hardships this team will face it's made perfectly clear that the one thing they won't compromise is the taste of the bean in this bistro. Their labour has earned them a loyal following; the largely sophisticated crowd, who don't object to being noticed but mostly keep to themselves, flock in from every corner of the city. Impressed, I decide to relieve myself. The double sinks are a bed of granite pebbles and definitely one of the classiest touches I've seen in any restaurant. I even contemplate finishing my coffee here, before recalling that I've been shirking my duties as referee. Outside, well-caffeinated and perky, we take in a refreshing lungful before the poker-faced power struggle commences. Who'll slip and promise to call first? All drama aside, for the fruitful matches, the ones they always talk about, the made-in-heaven ones, this was ideal setting. She caves, but this is not a promise worth the napkin it was written on. They part ways, each heading back to square one. L'Aroma,15 Ahmed Sami Al-Said St (off Al-Ahrar St), Mohandessin. Tel: (still unavailable). Opening hours: 7.30am-2.30am. Coffee and snacks for two, LE50.
