Restaurant review: Choc-Xtravaganza The djinn in the house of Wonka Regalteo returns from his northern excursions, aka premature summer holidays, and, to smooth a brutal re- acclimatising process, demands an analgesic. North coast dealers have sprung into seasonal action peddling their low-grade smack, pharmacies offer mediocre substitutes, excess wives can now be procured from local agencies at affordable rates, but we opt for the age-old aphrodisiac that has pleasured many and brought about the demise of even more, chocolate. Choco Folie is the new front for the house of the djinn. Certain locations refuse to stabilise. Veritable Bermuda triangles of retail, they come with a clock that ticks till the space changes hands, leaving the entrepreneur high- and-dry in emotional and fiscal despair. Two such mysterious examples, in the same vicinity as our subject matter, are the spacious obscurity across from Amman square's Tabasco, and the two-floored fiasco where Mohieddin St meets Gameat Al-Dewal St. The consistency with which these locations have expunged one project after another has generated a buzz of demonic possession, and the djinn that reside there don't tire from flexing their antisocial muscles. The djinn live in style, for this is the best décor and use of space this location has probably ever seen. In minimalist fashion beige leather chairs ensconce dark wood tables to the warm glow of translucent paint-splotched lamps, and an outbreak of deep purple murals, depicting pieces of dessert pinched by forks and cherries dipped in chocolate, has spread across the yellow walls. A greater influx of customers, with their accompanying wear-and- tear, will surely diffuse the clinical sterility the space still projects, making it feel more lived-in. Till then, we search for Regalteo's antidote as he spews out mouthfuls of butchered local history. Almost a decade ago, it seems, the space now in question once housed Sandwicherie, whose specials of minted lamb and Kashmiri chicken made the eponymous Earl proud to an extent that has yet to be matched by any restaurant this city has known. "If they didn't make it, nobody will." The die, as far as my pessimistic companion is concerned, has already been cast. It's outlandish how many uses they have put chocolate to; one half expects to find Willy Wonka grinning in satisfaction in a backroom as he cuts cards with the djinn. Crepes, fondue, fruit salads, tiramisu, chocolate -- along with her sisters, milk and white -- are the town tramps courting the cream of the desserts indiscriminately. The menu practically spills roasted cocoa beans as it shows off such innovative turns as the "batata split", and the volcano, a piece of spongy cake with melted chocolate simmering inside, bursting to erupt. Regalteo's remedy takes the form of an orange-chocolate "choc monsieur", whose balance is struck to perfection. Of a lower calibre however are the beverages. Standard coffee shop fare is offered along with "foamits", foam with the flavour of your choice (Curacao and blueberry anyone?) and a compelling selection of hot chocolate, iced chocolate, and choc shots. I treat myself to one of the latter and, after a careful deliberation which favoured Icelandic mint over Mexican chili, am disappointed to discover that the "fine home-made Swiss ingredients" were too sugary, drowning out both the chocolate and the mint. Curse the nation that can't kick the habit of overdoing it. As we make to leave Regalteo, high on tryptophan (chocolate's secret "love-drug"), stops to ogle an ostentatious counter pleading to be raided. Truffles, fudge, chocolate-dipped caramel crisps, a mouth-watering variety of cakes, and a date tart sneer backing contempt; the candy is as pleasing to the eye as we assume it must be to the palate. We bless this new Chocoholic's Mecca, pray it plants roots, and to ward off the pesky intransigent djinn Regalteo spits over his left shoulder thrice, successfully buffing the back of a waiter's neck. Choco Folie 33 Amman St, Mohandessin. Tel: +2 761 3389. Opening hours: 10am--Midnight, daily. Coffee and Dessert for two, LE75. By Waleed Marzouk
