Restaurant review: Craving Korean Fancy fire beef and fish pickle? The "Bul Go Gi" was delectable. Slivers of broiled beef, almost; it was certainly immersed in a savory marinade for a long, long time. The meat was tender and succulent; smells and tastes of traditional Korean spices permeate the delicious dish. Pulgoki, literally "fire beef" -- an internationally renowned delicacy. But on the Pine Tree's menu the world- famous barbecue was christened "Bul Go Gi". Still, a misspelled menu name will never detract from the authenticity and tastiness of such a mouth-watering spread, a veritable feast for the eye. The Pine Tree is tucked away in the backstreets of a plush neighbourhood of Maadi. A stone's throw away from the Nile, the panoramic views of the river are blocked by a towering monstrosity -- the five-star Sofitel Hotel. Sea, field and mountain are all trademark themes in Korean cuisine. The blend of taste and smell sensations evoked by the food of Korea might appear outlandish to all but the most adventurous of Egyptian gastronomic connoisseurs. The key ingredients of Korean dishes are wild herbs, pickled fish paste, seaweed, soybeans and fermented vegetables. The bottom line, I suppose, is that as far as food is concerned, Koreans have ideas quite alien to ours. However, that does not necessarily mean that Egyptians are inherently immune to the enjoyment of Korean. On the contrary, Korean restaurants appear to be at least no less popular than either the Chinese or the Japanese eateries of Cairo. And, considerably more so than the Indian ones. With more Korean restaurants sprouting all over Cairo, the evidence that Egyptians are developing a taste for Korean delicacies is mounting. Well-heeled, upwardly-mobile socialites all over the world are fast acquiring healthier eating habits and experimenting with the foods of unfamiliar cultures. And, judging from the Pine Tree's youthful clientele, an increasingly adventurous class of moneyed Egyptians are sampling the highly nutritious fermented roots and vegetables of Korea -- ginseng, mustard leaf, seaweed, turnip, radish, spinach, Korean lettuce and cabbage. Koreans traditionally have kimchi for starters. Indeed, kimchi is the essential condiment of all Korean meals. At the Pine Tree customers are treated to a wide selection of traditional Korean dishes. Be that as it may, some items were not available. There was no "Ox Tongue BBQ" on offer, and I balked at the thought of "Ox Intestine Stew". The shark fin soup was superb, however. And, my companion assured me that the seaweed soup wasn't bad either. Indeed, Pine Tree offers a varied selection of East Asian soups. The restaurant, after all, is not exclusively Korean. There are Japanese and Chinese dishes on offer, but Korean specialties predominate. The stewed fish was good, except that for such a flavoursome mackerel I'd rather have had something a tad less tangy to go with it. Mackerel drenched in a kimchi- like potpourri tasted a bit odd. The oily fish's naturally strong flavour was all but lost in the vinegar and brine concoction it was soaked in. The whole lot was liberally sprinkled with sesame seed, an all-time favourite of mine. Korean food is renowned for its healing properties. Nutrients produced during fermentation are especially valued for medicinal purposes. Indeed, certain foods in Korea are consumed specifically for their medicinal values. Garlic, ginger and red chilli, used extensively in Korean cuisine, apparently lower both blood pressure and cholesterol levels -- and they get the circulation going. The atmosphere at the Pine Tree is far from authentic, though. The decor is inspired by "Oriental" originals, and there are genuine Korean touches thrown in as well. But, the surest sign that the eatery is unmistakably Korean is the noisy television set perched up on a pine niche loudly airing chat shows and soaps broadcast by Korean satellite television channels. Pine Tree, Ali Al-Qardi Street, opposite the back entrance of Sofitel Hotel, Maadi. Tel: +202 5266410. Open 9am-12pm. Dinner for two, LE183. By Gamal Nkrumah
