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Restaurant review: Something in the air
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 09 - 03 - 2006


Restaurant review:
Something in the air
Who knows what tomorrow will bring -- maybe sunshine, maybe rain
There is always something good in everything bad, as I discovered when still very young. I can't remember if it was a notion I was inculcated by my ever watchful parents who sought to make a positive human being out of me, or if I was born with this hopeless predisposition for optimism. Yet the fact remains that, indeed, every misfortune seems to hold the seed for a good opportunity -- even that of inhaling air laden with dust during those awful sandstorms that come our way in this part of the world.
We already knew we had the entire park to ourselves, as one solitary car was the only company to our own vehicle in the parking lot. Had it not been for our need to protect ourselves from the suffocation of uncomfortable breathing, the little one and I would have remained by the pond at Al-Azhar Park, instead of seeking shelter in Alain Le Nôtre as we did. It was a blessing in dusty disguise.
Imagine being seated on that lovely terrace all by yourself, overlooking one of the most exquisite green spaces afforded by Cairo's concrete jungle. Imagine laying about on those mastabas in the abandon of complete privacy, your feet up on the gorgeous tabliya before you, and a smiling waiter having no other occupation but seeing to your gastronomical needs.
The menu was promptly delivered -- and a good thing too, as the little one had already begun listing the items he will not be eating, courtesy of the school briefing they received about the avian flu. "I am not eating anything with wings, and if I see a feather I will not touch it but run to wash my hands," he stated with adult conviction. The picture of the chocolate crêpe on the menu swiftly put an end to the tirade.
The crêpe was thin and just right. A real crêpe. The chocolate sauce, generously drizzled over in criss-crossing patterns, was so appropriately inviting as to entirely eclipse the scoop of vanilla ice-cream elegantly sitting in its small pastry cup. On the side of the plate sat a small amount of caramel sauce and strawberry coulis, just to add flavour and colour to the affair.
I had a totally different affair, as usual. Mine was a crêpe stuffed with cheese and mushrooms, and soaked in a scant amount of white sauce -- just enough to lend it a rich consistency, but not enough to make it swim. My two crêpes were neatly rolled up in the oblong dish, filled to overflow at the edges with lightly sautéed mushrooms and melted mozzarella. Oh, it looked good... it looked really good.
We sank our teeth in the goodies, and both began expressing delight in no uncertain sounds; a great thing indeed we had the place to ourselves. The amused waiters kept checking on us, delivering extras with sincere generosity. More chocolate sauce was poured over the remaining bits of crêpe; while, for me, a number of those thin gaufrettes accompanying my meal were placed on the table with a most gracious smile.
The thing about Alain Le Nôtre at Al-Azhar Park is that it operates in style. Everywhere you turn, a detail will catch your attention with its exquisite workmanship, its original colours and the richness of its material. Lamps, cushions, windows, doors, ceilings -- everything screams of quality and perfected care of execution, rendering the atmosphere both casually comfortable and subtly elegant at the same time.
There was no room left in our tummies for any cake, though I had to struggle in self-restraint while trying to convince myself that an undone button might solve this little problem. Shall I keep it reasonable, or indulge a gluttonous streak -- it was a difficult question to settle once I peaked another look at the desserts on the menu. There was chocolate everywhere! Why do they do this to us?
Reason eventually ruled over this one, unfortunately, and off we headed past that lovely wooden door to embrace dusty Cairo once more.
Alain Le Nôtre
Al-Azhar Park
Salah Salem
Two crêpes: LE60
By Injy El-Kashef


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