Restaurant review: No chickening out Take the drive -- now begins the season of migration to the north The end of winter is always a crazy time in Egypt. It's almost a game between the weather and us -- the winner being he who does not catch cold; for it is hard not to given the daily climactic. Come March, however, and we are pretty sure that the days of cold are numbered. Thoughts wander north and east of the republic, both the Mediterranean and the Red Sea coastlines rushing vividly back to mind as the sun's presence turns more conspicuous by the day. Should you happen to embark on the Northern Coast weekend getaway season already, do yourself a favour and head to the Andrea on the Agami Road for a great chicken meal. I know, I know, avian flu is in the air, how dare I even mention chicken, etc... etc... Well, I -- for one -- am eating both chicken and eggs, so long as they are well cooked. Just like the HIV scare in its initial phases, avian flu is causing far more of a panic than it should, so long as one understands the precautions and infection signs. Eat chicken, eat eggs, and be merry -- that's my verdict. The Andrea on this particular highway (the only branch of the Al-Haram original) is quite an affair, pitted as it is against an open sky in jovial colours. The exterior, a terracotta-coloured structure, is almost Mexican, with insanely bright bougainvillea climbing the walls with savage health. A few steps will lead you up to the outdoor seating terrace, and then all you must do is make sure you get a table by the balustrade, from whence you can overlook the whizzing cars speeding by while you chill out in the breeze. The waiters may be a bit of an issue in the full swing of the summer months when nearly half of Cairo is dipping its toes up north -- Andrea is usually a full house situation on most nights between June and September -- but at this time of year matters should still be under control, and waiters more readily available for your needs. At any rate, come rain or sunshine, they try to remain as pleasant as humanly possible considering the incredible demand on the goodies they deliver. If you have never tried Andrea before, this is as good a time to be initiated in its specialty of grilled chicken as ever. Andrea is famous for two important details -- 1) the marinade, spicy yet not hot, which has wrapped the chicken bits for hours on end to infiltrate every fibre with its ingenuity, judging by the uniquely succulent result; and 2) the fire: yes, the chicken is grilled on a live fire which works to slowly and gradually infuse the meat with the heating marinade, rendering the pieces so tender they melt in your mouth. A word of advice: do not even consider skipping the salads and appetisers -- they are at least half the fun and will help in filling you up, considering how light a meal of grilled chicken actually feels two hours down the line. Try to order as many different plates as your stomach will allow, especially if you are a large party, and move from one dish to the next, armed with Andrea's freshly baked house bread, which comes burning hot. Tahina and baba ghannoug I will not even mention, for these go without saying as accompaniments to a meal of grilled anything under the sun. What I will briefly discuss are the pickled goods. Pickled tomatoes, pickled aubergines and pickled lemons rate extremely high on the list, topped as they come with a delicious garlicky paste. Once you've tickled your appetite pink with the nibbles, it is time for the full-fledged attack. If there is more than one of you at the table, try sharing an order of mazalika next to your grilled chicken. The mazalika at Andrea is more than just chicken livers cooked in garlic sauce, it is a gesture of kindness to your palate. Once you are nicely stuffed, a round of tea with mint becomes a must, and you will love every sip -- it will give you the desired false impression that you have washed the meal down, and allow you to think you still have room for ice-cream. Been there, done that and will go back every chance I get. Andrea Northern Coast Road Kilo 65 By Injy El-Kashef
