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Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 01 - 06 - 2006

Spiritual healing and relaxing, join Mohamed El-Hebeishy as he sets off to discover Moses' Bath, one of Egypt's natural spas.
Legend has it that Moses passed here one day. Wanting to quench his thirst he asked the old lady by the spring if he can have some water to drink; surprisingly she refused. Moses prayed to God to bless the water with therapeutic properties, but never to be potable. Whether the legend is true or a mythical fabric of someone's imagination, the spring's water is indeed saline and enjoys a good deal of mineral concentration.
Moses Bay, or rather Hammam Moussa as it is better known in Arabic, is located in South Sinai's official capital, Al-Tor. Though not the biggest of South Sinai's cities and municipalities -- Sharm El-Sheikh reserves the first rank -- Al-Tor holds national economic as well as historical importance. Economically, it represents the main catching and storage centre for the fishing industry in the area. In addition it represents Sinai's oil centre with the Gulf of Suez being Egypt's richest oil deposit. Historically, Al-Tor was regarded as an important station for mining in the peninsula during the Pharaohs' time. Later, it acted as an asylum for persecuted Christians during the third century, and finally its port played a vital role on the pilgrimage route to Mecca.
Known as Al-Kilani Ruins, an archaeological mission from the Middle Eastern Culture Centre in Japan is currently excavating the old port. During their work they unearthed more than 400 manuscripts shedding light on early Islam, its development of social and commercial networks, and its relation with Christian, Coptic and Byzantine cultures.
A few steps from Al-Kilani Ruins lies the Greek Orthodox Monastery in Al-Tor, built to the orders of Byzantine Emperor Justinian (527-565 AD). The Monastery of Raithu, as it was known at times, played an important role as supplies were carried off from ships in the old port of Al-Tor, handed to the monks of the Monastery of Raithu and later headed off to the Monastery of St Catherine.
We pass Al-Tor on our way to the more glamorous Sharm El-Sheikh, and by no mean can they be compared. Nonetheless Al-Tor deserves an hour or two to explore and discover, if not for its historical sites, then at least for the enjoyment of a refreshing dip in Moses' Bath.
A travel agency manages the location, levying an admission fee to Moses' Bath of LE5 for Egyptians and LE20 for foreigners.
photo: Mohamed El-Hebeishy


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