You don't have to wait until the migrating season to go birdwatching. Just the other day, Amira El-Naqeeb saw plenty Although the winter in Egypt is not the peak season for birdwatching, there are almost 150 Egyptian resident species that cater to year-round birdwatching. The Egyptian habitat is very diverse, ranging from amorphous mountains, vast deserts, huge wetlands along the Mediterranean coast and the luxuriance of vegetation along the Nile basin, making Egypt a birdwatching paradise not only for its variety but also for the density of bird species. So, I decided to embark on several journeys to spot our feathered friends. On a beautiful, warm winter morning, Ahmed Riad, one of Egypt's top ornithologists, decided to start our excursion by paying a visit to the desert birds. "I had a passion for birds since I was 12," Riad said. "The university days were the peak of my investigation." Riad, now 40, has been a professional bird guide for almost 20 years. He is also co- founder of Nature Conservation Egypt, a society dedicated to conserving wildlife of Egypt. At 8.30am we were all geared up, with binoculars, water, and bird guides and headed in a four-wheeler towards Wadi Hagoul, our first destination. TO GET TO WADI HAGOUL you can take the Ring Road as if going to the new Ain Sukhna highway. Make sure you have everything you need because the gas stations on the road have grocery stores with very few supplies. Then take the first exit, after Carrefour, and the first U-turn, then take a right when you see a sign on the top of the road saying Hurghada/Ain Sukhna. On the way I enjoyed the stunning views, the cinnamon- coloured hills and azure sky. I set my imagination free, contemplating the unique rock formations on both sides of the road, alerted only by our first stop. Riad handed me the binoculars, for our first bird encounter of the day. It was the beautiful Brown-necked Raven, flapping its wings. It is a desert crow that can withstand extremely harsh conditions. The crow looked jet black; it wasn't until the sun rays reflected on his neck that I was able to see its chocolate brown colour. We again took off towards our destination. The sun was glinting and the sky was getting clearer, with a promise of a lovely day. "Any birdwatching journey must have a Plan B," said Riad. "The birds are not static. You can never be too sure what you're going to see. So there must be some flexibility." Heading straight until we found a sign pointing to Masria Cement Factory, we turned right, past the Mohamed Ali Fahmi tunnel. Then we took a left, then a right, straight until we reached a checkpoint. This was the beginning of Wadi Hagoul. Riad said the geology of the area was the same as the valleys and mountains of South Sinai. Wadi Hagoul was full of staggering views. The colour of the lush bushes with the limestone dunes was a sight. We decided to explore the left side of the wadi when the sounds of the birds started pulling us in. Generally the wadi doesn't need a 4x4; a normal engine can do the job. We pulled over and decided to take our binoculars and walk for a more up close and personal experience. Our first encounter was with the absolutely magnificent White-crowned Black Wheatear which is a small song bird, all black except for the rump and tail which are strikingly white. "The Arabic name for this bird is actually more accurate since only the males have a white crown," Riad said. "The juvenile and the females don't." As a beginning birder, I found it amazing to be able to see all these beautiful creatures in such close proximity thanks to the invention of the binoculars. We also saw the Desert and Spectacled Warblers, teeny weeny birds, along with the beautiful Bar-tailed and Desert Larks. Larks are seed-eating song birds. We were lucky to spot them on the ground, because when they stand still, their sandy colour blends with the surroundings. We sat on a rock scanning Wadi Hagoul for more birds. "Observance and patience are two main characteristics of a good birdwatcher," Riad said, noticing we were getting restless. After spending almost two hours in the wadi we decided to get going, to see more birds before it became too hot. We headed straight to Wadi Hagoul tunnel to get back on the new Ain Sukhna road. Squinting through our bins, just before the Ain Sukhna toll station, we spotted a Kestrel -- a falcon species hovering in the sky -- only to swoop on potential prey (a rodent or a large insect) on the ground. Just after the Ain Sukhna entrance, and no less awe- inspiring were the Spur-winged Plovers. I was totally taken by their beauty, especially when they spread theirs gorgeous velvet black and crispy white wings. "God, do they shop in Prada?" I asked. As we approached Ain Sukhna, the hotels and resorts started to show from a distance. One of the first and oldest resorts we encountered was Portrait Ain Sukhna where we decided to stop for a quick repose. Unfortunately, our hopes for some rest and a quick snack crashed to the ground. We failed to properly explain to hotel officials that we did not want to use the beach; just wanted a quick snack. They were determined that we should pay the fees of a day use, so we left. Our only condolence was listening to the chirping sound of the nightingale. We set off again looking for some other place where we can rest. The sun had just broke through the clouds and fly- bys started to pick up. Driving for about four kilometres from the Portrait, we found Al-Fangary cafeteria situated on the left side of the road. Straw chairs and huts on the beach, I felt we were being rewarded after the mix-up at Portrait. I slipped my shoes off, took my tea with mint, back against the straw chairs, feet buried in the sand and eyes fixed on the big blue, sea- gulls, cruising and bathing along the red sea bay, a spectacle rarely equalled elsewhere. As we peered through our binoculars, Riad said we were looking at six different gulls -- the graceful looking White- eyed Gull and the Sooty Gull are residents. The Armenian Gull, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Yellow-legged Gull, and Black-headed Gull are winter visitors. Riad said the latter ones lose their black colour in winter time, then obtain a white head with only a black spot behind the ear. The chiselled coloured mountains that were standing as a backdrop to this view were turning golden as the sun was reflecting on them. "During the migration seasons, these mountain tips are covered with hundreds of soaring birds such as buzzards, eagles, vultures and storks circling and gliding on hot thermals," Riad added. ON THE WAY TO SUEZ, we took the Ain Sukhna-Suez road, passing by Stella di Mare, Palmera, and a number of other resorts -- if you decide to spend the day or night in Ain Sokhna. There is also Pizza Hut and Kentucky on the road for a quick bite. Spanish Sparrows were keeping our company all the way to Suez, as they are easily spotted by their large flocks moving from one tree to another. They look very much like our common House Sparrow which is the most common bird in Cairo, but the male Spanish Sparrow has more chestnut colour and beautiful black stripes along its breast. It was interesting to know that Spanish Sparrows are no longer common in Spain, but more widespread in other parts of South Europe and Western Asia. Some fly during winter time south to the Mediterranean basin reaching Egypt. Riad discovered them breeding in Dakhla, Farafra and Bahariya oases in the Western Desert. "What a long way from Spain!" We also saw Rock Pigeons, Swallows and Laughing Doves, the latter widespread in Egypt. "Turn your binoculars northward, now," Riad said, looking something like an air- traffic controller as he was calling out the names of the birds. "This slim, velvety-black is the Indian Crow," he said. I was never a big fan of crows, but this one was utterly gorgeous. The Indian Crow is widespread in Suez as it reaches Egypt by getting a free ride on the big ships coming from Asia and passing through the Suez Canal. SUEZ: Upon entering the city, we spotted lots of Collared Doves standing in rows on electricity towers. Suez city itself looked quiet dull. There was terrible traffic and loads of garbage on the street. On seeing this we decided to head straight for the mud flats of the Suez bay. Our first encounter was with Slender-billed Gulls with their rosy chests. We were also lucky to see winter visitors from the family of shore birds known as Waders. The noisy Redshanks, the uncommon Bar-tailed Godwit, and Grey Plover were picking on tiny shore creatures. By the time we decided to head back for the car, the tides were already high and the water was above our ankles. Since my hunger as a beginner was not fulfilled and with the help of passionate avid birdwatchers like Riad, we decided to take two more trips to see more shore, sea and agricultural birds. We decided on Port Said as our next destination. THE ROAD TO PORT SAID: We took the Cairo-Ismailia road at 9am, heading towards Port Said. We passed by many lawns and fields until we stumbled into a gorgeous female sentinel. "Look, she's up there," said Riad, pointing out the female Kestrel who was standing proudly on one of the wires of an electricity tower as if guarding the field behind her. We pulled over, looking at her ruffled plumage, speckled dark primaries and black tail bar. There was a small canal and a sewage pond running through the field so we decided to go and check it out. Welcomed by the odour of the sewage pond, I would have been surprised had we found any birds in such a dirty, smelly place. "Beautiful places are not necessarily connected with birds. You can find birds in swamps because there are so many things to feed on," Riad explained. A Moorhen with its red forehead, sheathed in dark plumage finally came within sight as we were scanning the ponds and the fields. There were almost no facilities on the road except a rundown gas station and a small cafeteria. So if you want to eat something or use the restroom, this is your only chance. The eastern shore of Al-Manzalah mudflats, south of Port Said, is a magnet for both birds and birders. There were flocks of shorebirds darkening coastal skies. Through our binoculars, we saw Black-winged Stilts, walking as if on crutches with their grotesquely long pink legs, picking snails and worms out of the muddy shore. We also saw a Greenshank, swarms of Little Stints and a Little Egret was standing aristocratically on his long black legs with yellow feet, stretching his beautiful white neck. "It seems they're having a feast over snails, baby crabs and crustscenes," said Riad. As I looked up through my bins, I spotted a large headed white bird, its white belly and black shoulder fascinating, with reddish eye, gawking at me. "It's the Black-shouldered Kite which is a raptor that breeds in Egypt. It feeds on agricultural pests and therefore is a farmers' friend," Riad said. PORT SAID: Standing at the northern gate of the Suez Canal, we reached Port Said at around 1pm. Port Said is the second most important Egyptian port after Alexandria. It is situated on a narrow peninsula between Lake Manzalah and the Mediterranean. Regular bus trips leave to Port Said from Torguman bus terminal downtown. Port Said was founded in 1859 five years after the Suez Canal project was negotiated. It is only two hours from Cairo and enjoys a Mediterranean climate throughout the year. The city is idyllic in winter with visitors promenading along the Corniche. We headed to the main beach as the weather was getting a little bit chilly. The fresh breeze of the Mediterranean welcomed us as we stepped on the beach. There were lots of chairs and umbrellas scattered along the coast. Fishermen were standing on the shore, pulling their nets, to check the day's booty. Riad was calling out the names of birds flying overhead. "Little Gulls, Mediterranean Gulls, Sandwitch Terns and Arctic Skuas. The latter were swooping and chasing the rest of the birds for a share of the booty," he said. Looking through my binoculars, I witnessed a black and white beauty which Riad identified as a Pied Kingfisher. A majestic flight of sea birds was hovering above the waters, waiting for the right catch. We sat down on the beach chairs, facing the sea, listening to the sound of the lapping waves and enjoying our juices. If you decide to spend the night, there are some hotels that offer pleasant five- and four-star accommodation. FAYOUM: Heading to Fayoum was a special request of our friends from the United States, Sandi and Kathleen. "Although this is not the peak season, we knew about Fayoum as a hotspot for birds and birders from birdingegypt.com," said Kathleen. Fayoum is a city with a quiet reputation yet much to offer. It has 600km of desert hiking trail, and you can get closer there to birds than anywhere else. Fayoum is a one-hour trip by car, bus or train. The Cairo-Fayoum road starts near the Pyramids of Giza. We hit the road at 9am on a chilly winter morning, as the sullen fog clouded the horizon. Thanks to our professional bird guide we were geared up with our bins, bird field guides and water bottles. The road to Fayoum is pleasurable with its beautiful sand dunes and lush green surroundings. Upon reaching the northern shore of Lake Qaroun, there was a majestic flight of birds awaiting us. Squinting through binoculars, we brought Stilts and a pair of Wood Sandpipers (plump, speckled wading birds), into clearer view. "Look," said Riad and Kathleen at the same time -- a gorgeous bird, a strikingly curved bill, long blue grey legs and bold white and black colours. "It's an Avocet, one of the winter visitors," Riad said. We pulled over on the side of the lake and decided to go down for a closer look. Lake Qaroun is Egypt's largest salt lake. Despite having shrunk over the past few thousand years, it's about 215 square kilometres. The lake was historically a fresh water lake, but since it receives drainage water from the canals in Fayoum, it has turned salty. As we came closer we spotted ducks, gulls and coots. The dabbling and diving ducks were circling and swimming. The beautiful Shovlelers, Teals, Pintails, Wigeons and Pochards were diving below the surface but we could still see the tail feathers. When dabbling ducks feed while swimming, they turn upside down, and only their tail feathers show. However, diving ducks submerge totally in the water. Taking a walk in the vicinity of the lake, Riad was keeping an open eye for all kinds of interesting birds. As we were all sitting down, taking a break from the wind, a high-soaring Marsh Harrier brought us all to our feet. "If we consider birding an outdoor sport, we have more people participating in birding than any other sport in the US," Kathleen said. We took the car to check the fish farms. We stopped on the side of the road turning through our bins. A Painted Snipe came into sight, a much sought-after bird by dedicated birders. Along the fish farms, there were warblers such as Chiffchaff, Graceful Prinia and Clamourous Warbler, small birds that come in and out of bushes to feed on insects. The Senegal Thick-knee calls, another of Egypt's bird specialty, lured us. "I'm really entranced with its loud musical call," said Sandi. As hungry watchers, we went straight along the eastern shore of the lake seeking a place to rest and eat. Riad suggested Panorama Hotel, which offers a nice garden view, but the freezing weather stopped us from sitting outdoors. The restaurant inside was plain in terms of interiors and colours. We ordered fries, tehina and baba ghanoug salad, and tea. However, the prices were quiet steep for the quality and the portion of food offered. Bird-wise, we decided to call it a day at 4pm and head back to Cairo. On my way towards becoming a dedicated birder I felt an eagerness in me starting to grow. I asked Riad about the boom seasons for birds in Egypt and what to see. "Autumn and spring are the peak seasons for birdwatching in Egypt," Riad replied. "The variety is huge starting from large soaring birds to the tiny warblers and buntings. In autumn, birds migrate south from Western Asia and North East Europe to the Middle East, passing through Egypt. They continue migrating until they reach their winter destination in Africa south of the Sahara. During spring, birds follow the same route upwards till they reach their breeding grounds in the north. "So in a way, Egypt serves as a major highway and a crossroads for migratory birds between three continents."
