In the solitude of Nuweiba's Ananda, two's company and three is definitely not a crowd, writes Amira El-Naqeeb The idea of going to a remote camp in the desert never gave me the creeps before. Sleeping sous un manteau d'étoiles (underneath a coat of stars) rolled up within a sleeping bag, or sleeping in a hut on the beach always seemed my perfect getaway from the clutches of modernisation that often suffocate me. As such, Ananda in Nuweiba seemed the perfect chance to renew my love for Mother Nature and practice my yoga, except for this one time. I arrived at 1 pm, and seeing how calm, clean and quiet the place was, it appeared to be my idyllic version of bliss. That was until I realised that, since it was the off-season, I was the only guest. Nevertheless, always look at the bright side, I say, because privacy, especially where I was, is invaluable. However, when it started to get dark, and in a pitch black place like this one -- I couldn't see my hands -- I started to get the shivers. Going to bed at around 10pm, I opened the window to allow some moonlight into my hut. However, the sound of the palm fronds and how they made shadows outside the window was so scary that even Marlin Manson would have nightmares. After a sleepless night, my not-so- perfect getaway started to look a bit rosier when I found out that a friend of mine would be joining me in exile. Suddenly, being all alone didn't seem so bad after all. When you're looking forward to company you start to appreciate your own self. "We rely on Israeli tourism as our main guests and this is not their holiday season," Mohamed Hegab, Ananda's resident manager, replied when I asked why the site was deserted at this time of year. He also told me Ananda was very popular with the American University in Cairo students and that "during the summer they bring over their foreign friends to enjoy the peacefulness of the area. "When there are more guests, we usually light a fire on the beach, sing or tell stories," Hegab continued. I was sure nothing else was needed. For a perfect day at Ananda, I started with the sunrise. If you like to meditate, then the view it offers is your ultimate destination. Ananda, located on the Red Sea's Gulf of Aqaba, has a 200-metre beach-front. Built nine years ago, it has 50 huts; 12 directly on the beach and 38 approximately 50 metres away, all with a sea view. There are two communal bathrooms which were super clean. The hut costs LE30 per night for Egyptians and foreigners alike. The idyllic powdery beach was very tempting but not on an empty stomach. So I headed to the kitchen to order breakfast. I relaxed in the main hut on the beach, which is a seating area made of palm tree chunks, cushions, klims and a big low wooden table. I ate an Egyptian breakfast -- ta'mia, jam, eggs and Bedouin bread, freshly baked. The food was good, especially bearing in my mind that the head chef was not absent since there were no guests. After feeding the monster, I went to my hut, picked up my beach towel and headed towards the sugary-white beach. The weather was very warm and the sun was ideal for a golden tan. The water was too cold for a plunge but if you are anxious to admire God's underwater temple, snorkeling gear can be rented and diving trips organised. Around 3pm it was time to pick up my long-awaited company. When we arrived at the camp, it was almost sunset. We sat on the beach watching the explosion of pink and red hues colouring the mountains across the Red Sea. Affected only by hunger, my friend and I decided to order dinner, but without forsaking settling back into what would become our favorite sea-front dining spot. We ordered grilled chicken and pasta, and chocolate pancakes for dessert. All were very good. Night in Ananda may not involve more than a joyful mind-sail in the cool air. You can sway on a hammock, listen to the waves and watch the dazzling stars leave their reflection on the still water. It is like seeing the universe in the mirror of the sea. Perfect bliss is, after all, what Ananda means in Indian, Ananda owner Ezz Gelbana told me. It could not mean anything else. In order not to miss out on the action, and because the night was quite long, we decided to check out downtown Nuweiba. When we sought to order a car, since it is almost impossible to find any other means of transportation on the main road, we were shocked when told the fare back and forth would be LE100. Of course, since it was the off-season, prices were doubled, but we agreed to pay anyway. It took us almost 30 minutes to get to the so-called downtown area. If you have downtown Sharm El-Sheikh or Dahab in mind -- quaint small bazaars, boutiques with lots of variety, cafés bustling with people -- then you have set yourself up for a great disappointment. Instead, we found a street with a handful of supermarkets and a couple of Oriental coffee shops ( qahwa baladi ) . Disappointed and tired, we decided to head back to the camp, with hearts filled with grief on our wasted LE100 trip. Getting there Approximately 20km from Nuweiba if you take the coast towards Taba. Forty kilometres from Taba if you take the coast towards Nuweiba. In both cases you will see a sign with Ananda on your left or right depending on where you're coming from. To get to Nuweiba from Cairo you can take either a plane to Sharm El-Sheikh and then a bus or a taxi to Nuweiba. Or you can take the Super Jet or East Delta buses that go to Taba or Nuweiba directly. I recommend taking the East Delta 6am bus which costs LE60 because usually it is not very crowded and you get to enjoy the view. For reservations, call Ezz Gelbana on: 002012-3561742.
