‘Bride of the Mediterranean', ‘Maria', ‘The City That Never Sleeps' and ‘Lady Alexandria' are some of the many informal names given to the coastal city of Alexandria. It is the birthplace of many prominent figures in Egypt's history, including poet Bairam Al-Tonsy and renowned singer and composer Sayed Darwish (who wrote the melody to Egypt's national anthem). It was also once home to a large Greek community, which produced famous artists and poets such as Demis Roussos and Constantine P Cavafy. Across the terrace of the Greek Club in Al-Shatby district in this magical city next to the fortress of Qait Bey, the light across the bay outlines gently bobbing fishing boats as the sun slowly sets on the horizon. I enjoy my mint tea and fill my senses with scenes from this stunning historic city. I am introduced by Essam, a friendly waiter in his 60s, to the Greek historian Herrenita Costaantino, an 83-year-old lady with sharp green eyes and traces of unmistakable Greek beauty. Although there are almost no Greeks left in Alexandria, some still consider it their “second home”, says Costaantino who arrived in Alexandria in 1939 when she was only 10 years old. Costaantino still remembers when she stepped off the ship at Alexandria Harbour: “As a child, I instantly fell in love with this city and somehow knew I would never leave it.” A historian who majored in modern Egyptian history and holds a Master's degree and PhD in ancient and modern history of Alexandria, Constaantino describes herself as “a loyal lover of Alexandria”. She takes me on a marvelous journey back in time to places where glimpses of the past still endure. She recounts some delightful details about the unique names of the Alexandria neighborhoods which she researched extensively. She explains ‘Loran' is actually the name of a French cigarette company owner who lived in Alexandria in the 19th Century; his palace is now Loran's secondary school. ‘Zizinia' is the name of an Italian Count who was a famous cotton merchant in Alexandria. The bustling neighbourhood was the epicentre of resistance under British occupation, and was accurately portrayed in Osama Anwar Okasha's famous television series Zizinia. In his book Alexandria - The Pearl, author Salama Khalifa explains that many of Alexandria neighbourhoods were named after British businessmen who belonged to the Tramway Board of Directors – Stanley, Blockley, Flemming. Khalifa also reveals that the prominent San Stefano district honours the Serb victory against the Turkish Ottomans in 1874 at the Battle of San Stefano, which resulted in Serb independence. In Alexandria Rediscovered, historian Jean-Yves Empereur recounts that Semooha district is named after Iraqi Jewish fabric merchant Youssef Semooha who settled in Alexandria. Janaklis, Empereur explains, is the name of a popular Greek vineyard owner, while Sporting is named after the club located in the area. Ras El-Teen, meanwhile, is named after the popular North Coast fruit teen [figs] which is widely grown in the area. As a Greek child and teenager growing up in Alexandria, Constaantino details life in the Greek community between the 1940s and 1970s and recalls Greeks were considered Egyptian citizens, and never treated otherwise. This helped them establish strong roots and pioneer eateries and architecture around the city, blending European and Eastern taste in both domains. At Al-Raml Station Square on Saad Zaghloul Street stands Trianon, one of the most charming cafés in Alexandria. Constaantino recounts the history of the café goes back to over 120 years ago, when its first owner Greek businessman Yorgos Berelis built the establishment. Later, the Constantinos bought it and partnered with another Greek family, the Dreikos. Trianon became a very popular spot in the 1960s with its unique European ambience and Eastern wooden carvings. In the early 1970s, Trianon was bought by the Egyptian Khodeiry and George Luca families. Many famous Egyptians walked through the doors of Trianon, including Nagiub Mahfouz, Tawfik Al-Hakeem and poet Abdel-Rahman Al-Abnoudy. With its intricate architecture and nostalgic atmosphere, Trianon is a captivating landmark boasting a grand French piano that dates back to 1911 – I am told by one of the oldest waiters, Khamees. He also reveals that up until the mid-1980s, chefs and waiters who worked at Trianon spoke fluent Greek. A couple of streets over from Saad Zaghloul is another well-known spot: Mohammed Ahmed, a restaurant serving favourite Egyptian staples fuul, falafel and besara, along with a variety of delicious Egyptian dishes. The menu not only lists food items and prices, but also quotes by famous people about the food. Actor Fouad Al-Mohandes said, “Just two words: the fuul is delicious” – ‘Just two words' being the catchphrase of his radio programme. Current owner is Mohamed Ahmed himself, lists his famous clientele including Greek singer Demis Roussos, directors Youssef Chahine, Salah Abu Seif and more recently director Khaled Youssef, as well as former presidential candidate Hamdeen Sabahi. “Queen Sophia of Spain also ate here. She spent almost two hours and was very pleased,” Ahmed declared proudly. On the Corniche in Al-Raml, one cannot miss another Alexandria delectable landmark: Patisserie Delices, It was founded by Greek businessman Cleovolos Moustacas at the beginning of the 20th Century and is still managed by the same family to this day with its rich aroma and quaint atmosphere. The Patisserie is famous for making King Farouk and Queen Farida's golden royal wedding cake which consisted of seven levels and was five meters tall. Gleam, a district named after a Greek member of the Municipal Council of Alexandria, is home to the enchanting Royal Jewelry Museum at Fatma Al Zahraa Palace. The palace was built in 1919 by her mother Zeinab Fahmy, a descendant of the royal Mohamed Ali family. Built in a peculiar blend of European and Eastern styles, the palace is a unique piece of art. It houses more 11,500 pieces belonging to the Egyptian royal family, including breathtaking jewelry from gold diamond watches to various ancient coins and gold medals. There are also 2,735 cloves of Flemish and Barlent diamonds, diamond crowns, wallets and gold awards belonging to Mohamed Ali. Another part of the museum contains the jewelry of Queen Nazly (King Farouk's mother) and Queen Nariman (King Farouk's second wife), including diamond necklaces, platinum diamond-studded crowns, precious stones and various collections of pearls. Visiting the museum is like stepping into a fairytale; a time when the rulers of Egypt donned on flowing elegant dresses, diamond studded crowns, exquisite jewelry, and kings wore neatly tailored suits and carried arms of gold. Oh Alexandria the beautiful; Oh Maria, it's a promise I must keep; To drink from your love, and dive into your sea; And live within the hugs of your loved ones and your kind people. With these words, poet Sayed Hegab describes his love for Alexandria. As did famed Italian-born singer Dalida who sang: “Alexandria, the finest people ever!”
