As if there weren't enough restaurants in CityStars to satisfy every taste, the addition of its new extension is now providing an almost overwhelming variety of eateries to choose from: TexMex, Italian, American, Asian, the list goes on. After strolling through said extension and doing some shopping at the newly-opened and ever-crowded H&M, my friend and I worked up an appetite. So we took the nearest stairs and went directly to the gourmet-style food court. It was certainly a smart move to place four restaurants above what is now CityStars' most popular clothing store. We chose a place that takes its name from one of the world's most romantic Mediterranean countries: Italy.Eatalian, a cheesy play on words, is an Italian-inspired restaurant that is rather bland in both appearance and taste. Resembling a sterile cafeteria, decked with chrome and light wood colored furniture mixed with shades of greens, it offered a clean, simple atmosphere that was pleasant but unimpressive. The same can be said for the food at Eatalian. The service, on the other hand, was prompt and polite. As soon as we were seated, fresh bread was brought to the table accompanied by a small plate of oil and balsamic vinegar and a sampling of green olives. Considering our level of hunger, the small bites were highly welcomed as we scanned the modern-looking menus. The actual appetizers, on the other hand, were not enough for two people looking to satisfy big appetites. Restaurant-goers be warned: Eatalian's portions are a bit on the small side. They are also somewhat expensive. With mouthwatering combinations like mascarpone cheese and citrus-smoked salmon or bruschetta on freshly sliced Italian bread, we opted to forgo the appetizers, which cost anywhere from LE 25 to LE 40 per plate. Instead we chose to sample one of the few salad selections: Caprese Insalate. Coming in at around LE 30, the Caprese Insalate was tasty with its traditionally simple ingredients: sweet cherry tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and basil on fresh Italian bread lightly covered in olive oil. Just like the appetizers, which they term Piccoli Piatti, the Insalate came in only two pieces. If it had been real gourmet food and tasted like something I couldn't make myself, it would have been worth it. Unfortunately, it wasn't. Perhaps choosing one of the items at LE 25 listed below the Zuppe (soup) section would have been more enjoyable, but with Cairo's heat, it was the last thing we wanted to eat. We then split two pizzas: The Quatro Stagioni was far better than the other pizza, but it was still far from being "wow, as my friend put it. Made with a potentially mouthwatering combination of beef ham, artichoke hearts, aubergine, tomatoes and mozzarella cheese, my pizza lacked that indescribable taste Italian restaurants usually dish out. My friend's choice was no better - the goat cheese that was one of the main ingredients that spotted his pizza sparingly and was not melted. We sent it back to add more cheese - how can a pizza be called a pizza if it doesn't have enough of the key ingredient? We may have just picked the not-so-tasty items on the menu. Eatalian also offers a wide selection of pastas and entrées such as the Vitello di Manzo (veal steak, Fontana potatoes and baby carrots, which costs LE 48). My friend was more impressed by their box of matches than the food, though I personally thought that their Tiramisu was absolutely delicious. Made of mascarpone and topped with espresso, the dessert came in a small glass container that looked like a candleholder. Overall, Eatalian was creative in its menu selection, but unable to deliver any signature dishes. It was simply uninspiring. Eatalian, Phase 2 of CityStars, open 11 am-midnight. Tel: (02) 2480 2492;www.eat-eatalian.com.
