Restaurant review: Enchanting Jounieh Gamal Nkrumah tracks down a finger-licking Lebanese food eatery The picturesque Lebanese coastal city of Jounieh is captivating and it is now at hand in Cairo, New Cairo to be precise. An enchanting restaurant by a serpentine lake in the centre of Rehab City, Jounieh is one of several new Lebanese restaurants sprouting up all over Egypt. Jounieh, however, is one of the best of its kind and it is not too hard on the pocket either. The grilled lamb cutlets were delicious. Tender and succulent, they ooze the meaty mouthwatering juices which amply satisfy the cravings of the true carnivore. I am told their kebabs and koftas (marinated mince meats) are equally delectable. El-Sayed Mohamed Nada, the proprietor, is a most pleasant man. He beckons politely. "How do you like your lamb chops? Medium rare," he smiles obligingly. He is gone and in less than 10 minutes, the perfectly seared lamb chops are placed on my table. The aroma of grilled meat enticing, and the whiff of the lightly-spiced marinade equally inviting. A most amicable man, Nada lived in Lebanon for several years before he decided to return to his native Egypt. "Jounieh is dear to my heart. It conjures up images of the Lebanon I love," he muses. "Jounieh is located on an especially beautiful stretch of the Lebanese coast. It encapsulates all that is pleasant about Lebanon and the Lebanese," Nada reminisces. He is a fashion designer who has a show room in CityStars mall, Nasr City. This is the first such outlet in Egypt. Jounieh caters for Egyptians, though Levantines flock to this particular Rehab eatery. "Yes, we have many Syrians, Lebanese and Jordanians who frequent the restaurant," he proudly says. Jounieh officially opened with much aplomb today though it has been operating successfully for the past month in the heart of what is undoubtedly the most enchanting of Cairo's satellite cities. Nada divides his time between his fashion outlet Mohamed Nada at the plush CityStars and Rehab City where he resides and has set up his restaurant to remind him of his beloved Lebanon. So how did he manage the switch from fashion designer to restaurateur? "Cooking is an art, fashion is about art, too. I am an art lover," he says nonchalantly. "But the most important thing is that you like the food." I nodded encouragingly. The salads are a delight, the ingredients as fresh as they are in Lebanon. The tabouleh and fatoush were prepared as if by a Lebanese. The portions are generous and the exact mix of ingredients makes for an indescribably tasty dish. There was no kibbah nayeh (raw ground meat) on offer. "The dish is one of my all time favourites. However, I cannot serve it in Egypt. I guess Egyptians, and most of my customers are Egyptian, would not take kindly to it," Nada explains. Other less bizarre Lebanese specialties were served, however. One that was especially popular with my sons was the manaaish, plural of man'ousha, a traditional Lebanese pizza. Freshly baked, it is a delight, the aroma of the rising dough irresistible. The preparation of this exquisite bread is a pleasure in itself. Traditionally it is cooked on a saj, though a flat cast- iron skillet will do. The important thing to note is the patting of the dough and spreaading it evenly over the skillet. The manaaish at Jounieh were enough for at least three people. This is among the simplest and most delightful of Lebanese dishes. It is especially delicious plain, piping hot straight from the oven, preferably with lashings of thyme and the whole drenched in olive oil. There are other varieties, though. One has the option of cheese or mince lamb toppings. I, personally, favour the simple thyme, the whiff of which is enough to start my stomach rumbling in anticipation. I must say that the manaaish at Jounieh are just as good as the real thing in Lebanon. Jounieh The Food Court Rehab City Dinner for two: LE120 Tel: 02 2692 2860/1
