Restaurant review: Grill with a view Exorbitantly expensive, but you pay for the panorama, notes Gamal Nkrumah Although the Nile's waters dominate the scene, the surrounding skyscrapers cannot be disregarded, nor pinned down. Cairo's five-star hotels -- the major landmarks of the city's riverine vista -- can be seen in all their splendour. By exuberant contrast, the Vodafone feluccas with bright crimson sails passed languidly by. The ambiance was tranquil and serene, and the whiff of grilled meats filled the air. Yet Al-Kababgy, which is one of Sofitel Al-Gezira's most authentic restaurants, boasts something other eateries in this plush hotel cannot. It is the place where opulence meets Nile, and luxury, the Eternal River's waters. It is just one of many attractions of the hotel, a veritable Cairo landmark that has recently undergone a change of management. It used to be run by Sheraton; now it is Sofitel. Doves and seagulls were hovering overhead, and the shrill shrieks of the latter sharply contrasted with the soothing coos of the former. Behind the benign exterior, Al-Kababgy is hard to fathom. It is the perfect escapade, if you can afford it. The food is superb, but the portions vary considerably. The main courses are generous. Kebabs and grilled chicken and pigeon were on offer, but I wanted to taste something different, so I opted for liver. And, it was a fine choice. The veal liver was cooked to perfection, succulent and juicy. The natural flavours oozed out of the lightly seared liver -- a delicious brown from the outside and a pale pink in the inside. However, for LE75, it was far too costly, but I guess one pays for savouring the liver amid the enchanting surroundings of an incredibly magnificent vista. I became captivated all over again: this particular spot used to be one of my favourite haunts. However, refurbished and recreated as an oriental grill, it is far prettier, and more inviting than before. It is an ideal environment for relaxing and the traffic and din of the city seem a million miles away. All you hear is the gentle smacking of the waves against the rocks on which the restaurant stands. The food, too, is as delightful as the scenery. The bread, freshly baked straight from the oven right across from where we sat, was quite simply divine. The mezzas were a heavenly mix of oriental dishes -- mittabal, grilled skinned aubergine with lashings of garlic and extra-virgin, cold-pressed olive oil. A delectable spread, but it comes at an exorbitant price. The freshly-squeezed lemon juice cost LE22 and the cup of Turkish coffee LE20. Bottled mineral water cost LE20 and the can of Pepsi LE16. The chicken livers, not particularly expensive at LE30, were deliciously spiced, obviously marinated for a long time and lightly grilled. My partner tried the chicken liver and pronounced it perfect. Unlike with the main courses, the portions of the mezzas were on the small side. Be that as it may, that is the traditional way with mezzas. The beauty is in the presentation of the dishes and they are quite filling. The tabouleh, the fabled Lebanese parsley and burghul (crudely crushed buckwheat) was tart and fantastically fresh. The chickpea and sesame spread were scrumptious and so was the fatoush, another Lebanese salad with lettuce, tomato, olive oil, toasted pitta bread and sumaa, a tangy Levantine herb which exudes a lemon-like flavour. This was one of the most searching questions: water is associated with the denizens of the deep, and yet it was the intoxicating aromas of grilled meats that overwhelmed us at Al-Kababgy. The great thing, however, is that there is no suffocating smoke from the grills that normally characterise the kebab eateries. Perhaps it was the balmy breezes from the Nile. The golden sunset and soft autumn sunrays engulfed everything in loveliness. The ambiance of the place is riveting and continues to pulse through us long after we leave this superlative life-enhancing eatery. Al-Kababgy Sofitel Al-Gezira Tel: 2736 1555 Dinner for two: LE450
