PETRA, Jordan: Petra was brought to the big-screen by Indiana Jones, in The Last Crusade, creating a surge in travelers who sought out the ancient city. Unlike the movie there is no Holy Grail and no Crusader knight guarding entrance. Yet, this ancient city carved from the mountain has the glory and splendor the ancient world should have. For the traveler, Petra unlocks the past in its magnificent structures. Now, it is one of the modern wonders of the world and must be on the map for any traveler in the Middle East. The causeway, or As-Siq in Arabic, is the first glimpse of the canyons that open into the ancient ruins of Petra. Narrow, with high canyon walls on both sides, it is an experience that evokes astonishment. It is here that the nickname for Petra, Rose City, achieves meaning. The reddish colored canyon is reminiscent of the color of a rose. Seeing the marks of time on the outer layers is breathtaking. At times as narrow as only two meters, the anticipation of entering the great city can take its toll. But remember, it is here that over two thousand years ago, the inhabitants of Petra brought in the city’s supplies. Looking closely it is easy to see the little channels on each side of the canyon that were used to bring water into the city and to direct floodwaters out of the city. In past times it must have been inspiring to see caravans traverse this corridor on their way to Petra. I even caught myself imagining I was on one of those caravans heading to Petra for the first time. Only Indiana Jones brought me back to reality as I caught my first glimpse of the Treasury. The most photographed place in Jordan is the Treasury, or Al Khazneh. George Lucas and Stephen Spielberg used the Treasury in the third installment of the Indiana Jones film trilogy for the resting place of the Holy Grail. No, the Grail is not here, but there are Jordanian guards protecting the entrance to the Treasury dressed in a style reminiscent of early 20th century Hollywood, when they were still nice to Arabs. Stopping twenty or so meters away from the Treasury is the perfect spot to snap off some pictures. It is best to get there early in the morning though, for as many as 3000 tourists are at Petra on a given day, making clear photos of the place nearly impossible. The symmetry of the façade is absolutely astonishing. Carved out of solid rock into the side of the mountain, most people immediately love Petra after their first sight of this monument. The Treasury, according to archaeologists, was constructed between 100 BCE and 200 CE. The Treasury is adorned with six columns, atop each is a pediment depicting a gorgon’s head. On the top level are two Victories coming out of the stone. Exquisite architecture is only eclipsed by the central figure atop the entrance. Most scholars believe the pediment to be an assimilation of the Egyptian goddess Isis. Breathtaking, it is easy believe that it is being guarded because the Grail actually does exist inside. It is difficult to comprehend how a people could have built this magnificent structure into the side of a mountain without the precision-guided tools of today with such perfection. Proceeding westward, the visitor will encounter the city center. Just before reaching the center of the city is the Street of Façades. This is home to over 40 tombs and houses. It is worth stopping to peruse some of the tombs and homes to get an idea of how the ancient people once lived. Just beyond the Street of Façades is the Theatre. Although weathered by the elements over the years, this structure is still a sight for the eyes. I recommend climbing the opposite mountain to get a full view of the size before heading down for a close up look. Constructed around the 1st century BCE, this amphitheatre was cut straight from the rock. The large symmetrical seating originally sat approximately 3000 people in 45 rows. When the Romans renovated the theatre in the 2nd century, they increased the seating to almost 9000! One thing to look for is the top levels, which were once temples. The Romans converted them into luxury boxes for the elite. Almost like the luxury boxes of large stadiums today. Although badly damaged by the elements over time, it is amazing to walk through an ancient theatre of its kind. As the riverbed widens out after the amphitheatre are the Royal Tombs, which are carved into the wall of Jebel al-Khubtha. Directly opposite the theatre is the Uneishu Tomb, dedicated to an elite member of society. This tomb is easy to miss as most travelers head immediately for the three other main royal tombs. I recommend stopping to check this place out, as it is eye opening and gives a great first impression before heading toward the Urn Tomb, Corinthian Tomb and the Palace Tomb. Four half-columns alongside four figures representing deities are magnificently displayed at the entrance of the Urn Tomb. Dating to the first century, this tomb has an open terrace and a double layer of vaults. The inner chamber is gigantic, measuring 18 meters by 20 meters. A Greek inscription reminds us that it was once used as a Byzantine church in the 5th century. It is hard to imagine how the tomb had once looked, as time has roughed the inner walls and decayed most of the relics that once adorned the tomb. Next, the Corinthian tomb reveals the different civilizations that have inhabited Petra. A hybrid of Hellenistic and Nabataean influences, the lower level is distinctly Nabataean, while the upper level is Hellenistic. Suffering centuries of exposure to the natural elements this is not the most elaborately decorated of the Royal Tombs, but as a visitor of Petra it is worth a visit, if only to see the combination of cultures. Finally, the Palace Tomb has everything that a connoisseur of tombs wants. This three-storey reproduction of a Roman palace per se, is the largest and most recent monument at Petra. After entering through the large doors, marvel at the eighteen columns that adorn the upper level. These are the most visual constructions of the tomb. Interestingly, the top left corner is not cut out of the mountain; instead it is built in order to complete the façade because the stone did not extend far enough for an entire façade to be constructed from the stone. While these tombs are not the most magnificent tombs, they are a wonder, considering they were built almost entirely out of the stone. Other tombs are sprinkled throughout Petra and if time allows go for it. If not, head to the Monastery, the second most famous monument at Petra. This was by far my favorite location at Petra. After taking the long journey up the mountain on the northwest edge of the ancient city, which is not an easy climb, the Monastery, Al-Deir, comes into view. The reward after reaching the summit is well worth it, as the 50m wide and 45m high Monastery whets the appetite. Most likely built as a Nabataean temple in the 3rd century BCE, it has crosses carved on the inside making many scholars to believe that it was probably used as a Byzantine church at one time. This gigantic structure is similarly constructed as the Treasury, albeit much grandeur. The three-dimensional upper level compliments the lower façade superbly. The lower level is thought to be a derivation from the influence of Hellenistic culture. This towering structure makes one feel insignificant among the glory of the ancient past. I recommend relaxing at the kiosk opposite the Monastery in order to contemplate the imposing structure. Snapping a roll of film here is also a must, as the pictures are absolutely magnificent. While there are many conspiracies that Petra was built by Aliens, as the bird’s eye view of Petra as a Crescent Moon helps to create odd interpretations, one thing is for sure: this red city is a wonder of the ancient world and must be toured by every avid traveler in the Middle East. BM
