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108 minutes in Rashid, Egypt
Published in Bikya Masr on 31 - 10 - 2009

RASHID, Egypt: Rashid, known in English as Rosetta, has the unique honor of occupying a position by both the Nile and the Mediterranean. It is in this small town that the Nile finally ends its journey by pouring into the Mediterranean Sea. Rashid is best known for being the site of discovery of the Rosetta stone, which now sits in the British Museum.
Being a small town, 108 minutes is enough time to navigate Rashid. The starting point should be the Corniche. Take a minibus north to Qaitbay Castle, the smaller counterpart of the better known Qaitbay Castle in Alexandria. Thirty minutes at the castle should be enough. At the entrance there is a replica of the Rosetta stone. The castle itself does not leave much of an impression, but a walk on the rooftop is well worth it. Qaitbay Castle enjoys a position immediately by the Nile, offering spectacular views of the river. Fishermen row their boats through calm, placid waters and fish farms are interspersed among the boats. It is best enjoyed in winter when the weather is chilly.
Next, its time to see the point of meeting of the Nile and Mediterranean, a scene well worth seeing. Ask for directions to “Borg Rashid”, a small settlement outside the main town. El Borg is reached by a short walk along unpaved dirt roads among fields, one storey houses and palm trees, providing a rare opportunity to walk in the Egyptian countryside. Now it's time for a toktok ride, something you can't do everyday. The engine powered tricycle with a roof is a traffic violation in Cairo and Alexandria, but is the only means of transportation in some rural areas. For about three pounds, the driver will take you to “El Boghaz”, the meeting point of river and sea. Be sure to have the driver's mobile number. It's unlikely there will be any toktoks there to take you back.
Twenty minutes at El Boghaz. Apart from a few lone fishermen, you'll be alone. The scene of the calm waters of the world's longest river pouring into the raging sea is absolutely breathtaking. Under your feet, the ground has suddenly turned into a seashore with thousands of seashells. You will be tempted to get as close as possible to the waters and taste it. The salty sea takes precedence over the fresh Nile here.
Take the toktok back to El Borg and from there a minibus back to the town center. A visit to Rashid is not complete without a short walk along the Nile Corniche (ten minutes). You'll find several street vendors chopping and selling what seems to be thin slices of wet wood. This local delicacy, known as “gummara”, is obtained from the inside of a palm tree and its sweet-sour taste is worth a try.
Ask for directions to the fish market, where scores of vendors and fishermen compete to sell their day's catch. Stop at any vendor and buy some fresh fish; so fresh it is still moving. The vendor will direct you to someone who will barbecue it for you. Food ready, walk back to the Corniche and enjoy your meal by the Nile. Here too, you'll be tempted to taste the Nile waters. By now it's acquired a brackish taste!
Stomach full, end your tour with a short walk through the narrow streets and alleys around the fish market, where there are numerous Ottoman houses and mosques that testify to Rashid's former importance.
BM


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