By Lubna Abdel-Aziz They lay to rest the Prince of Fashion in Paris, France, who succumbed at the age of 71 after a long illness -- alas, too soon. Now the shy and troubled recluse may find the peace and tranquillity, the kindness and security he always longed for. At the huge baroque church on Rue Saint Honore his admirers came, one by one, to bid farewell to the legendary designer, one of the greatest figures in Fashion history. Eight hundred invited mourners wept as Pere Roland Litteron officiated the last rites for one Yves Henri Donat Mathieru Saint Laurent, better known to all as, YSL. His long time partner and business associate Pierre Berge was consoled by the celebrities who filled the church, from the Prime Minster of France Nicolas Sarkozy, to the employees of the fashion house. Catherine Deneuve read a poem in tribute to her friend, whom she picked to design her clothes in her cult classic film Belle de Jour. Many of the world's models and designers were there to bid farewell to the legendary artist who defined the woman of the 20th century. One conspicuous absence was that of Karl Lagerfeld, long time classmate and rival, who was conveniently "out of town on business." The whole world joins France in mourning their inspirational genius, who together with Christian Dior and Coco Chanel established France as the fashion capital of the world. As the hearst came out of the church draped in the flag of France, the 800 mourners mingled their flowing tears with resounding applause, as did we all. In 1954, at 17, Yves Saint Laurent won first prize in the International Wool Secretariat for his asymmetrical cocktail dress. He was immediately hand-picked by the king of fashion Christian Dior to be his assistant, a position Karl Lagerfeld among others, aspired to. Yves proved himself indispensible at the premiere Maison de Couture. On Dior's sudden death in 1957, Yves, now only 21, was named head of this august Maison Dior, in an effort to save it from financial ruin. In his first solo collection in 1958 he introduced the 'trapeze dress' with its narrow shoulders and swinging skirt, an instant outstanding hit. It was a breath of fresh air for women after years of tight waists and girdles which confined their freedom. He received 11 standing ovations at the exhibit. Even Parisians in the streets joined in cheering the new found genius. Overcome by emotion the timid Yves went out in the balcony to thank them. Calamity struck again two years later at the House of Dior. Saint Laurent was drafted into the military service, a tragic mistake and the most traumatic experience of his life. Following a nervous breakdown, he was soon discharged a nervous breakdown and spent two years in a hospital recovering from his condition. Mental depression however became his lifetime companion. In 1962 Saint Laurent met with his mentor, admirer, and lifetime companion Pierre Berge, and together they opened the YSL Haute Couture House. Consistently stunning and innovative, Saint Laurent created one classic after another, revolutionising women's wardrobes as well as redefining their place in society. He made pants for women look elegant and feminine when tailored to the female form. Trim pant suites and see-through blouses became an emblem of elegant femininity and outright sexiness. He was not done! He introduced the black leather jacket, the knit turtleneck, the high boots, ushering men's clothes into women's wardrobes. All have endured as symbols of high style. This trend, that established the new androgynous style, reflected women's efforts for a stronger social role. Then in 1966 came "le smoking suit" arguably the most famous classic tuxedo suit for women. It seemed almost like he invented it, and the tux became the high fashion statement for both sexes. In an effort to dramatise fashion Saint Laurent opened a ready-to-wear boutique on the left bank -- "Rive Gauche." Today there are 200 YSL and Rive Gauche boutiques around the world. In homage to its founder, all YSL shops were closed for two hours for the duration of the funeral. His ethnic touch was unmistakable in his inclusion of beads, plumes, feathers, turbans, and even the Moroccan fez. Born in Oran, Algiers in 1936, Yves maintained a home in Morocco, which became his main residence. Influenced by the wide and untamed beauty of North Africa, he exhibited it in style, cut and feel. His ethnic penchant appeard in wild accessories and exotic colour combinations. He introduced the safari jacket for women, which remains a perennial favourite among all designers for both sexes. This creative genius was also the first to introduce black models on the runway. Despite his dominant success in this exciting world of glamour and showmanship, it is hard to believe that this fashion giant was a pathologic recluse. Shy and retreating, he was mentally and physically frail, a victim of constant bouts of depression. He forced himself to walk down the runway and recognize the regular standing ovations he received after every collection, the only designer to be so acknowledged. Caroline Milhaud in her book Couture, the Great Fashion Designers in 1985 wrote of Saint Laurent: "the most consistently celebrated and influential designer of the last 25 years." More than any other fashion French designer Saint Laurent presented Paris to the world as the style leader. Uniquely French, yet his fashions were for every woman of every age, everywhere. Christian Dior, regarded as the greatest creator of his time, was truly inspired the day he picked one so talented as Yves, to become his heir apparent. Fashion is not only supposed to make women beautiful "but to reassure them and give them confidence," this was his vision for women. The 'Independent' of London wrote: "By putting a woman in a man's tuxedo, he changed fashion forever in a style that is never dated." The myriad fashion channels on television have devoted hours of remembering Yves and his avant'garde style. What is most impressive in viewing these styles is their freshness and contemporary lines. Though they were designed 30-40 years ago. The fashion world continues to follow the lines that Yves had drawn. "If Chanel freed women, Saint Laurent empowered them," a remark by Pierre Berge sums up Laurent's achievement. Because they enhance women's attributes, mental and physical, his classic lines will always remains stylish. Women will forever owe Saint Laurent a great debt. Having spent much of his time in Morocco, there he rests now, "in the Maghreb," the place where he was born. No longer confined "to his prison of depression," the liberator of women, Yves Saint Laurent may himselfbe free at last. Rest in peace, sweet prince, you have well earned it! A time to weep, and a time to laugh; A time to mourn, and a time to dance. The Bible: Ecclesiastes 3:1-8
