By Mursi Saad El-Din Basically Denise Amman is a political analyst but, at the same time, she is a woman of letters, if one can use such an expression. She has published a novel and a book on Egyptian art. She writes in French and her book was originally published in French as L'Egypte Des Mains Magiques which literally translated means "Egypt of the Magical Hands" -- the title the American University in Cairo Press chose for the English edition. In his introduction to the book Dr Khalil Sabat, Professor of Journalism at Cairo University, writes, "This work is, in a sense, the history of Egyptian civilisation, all along 7000 years, through an artisana which used and still uses, material extracted from its soil... Denise Amman takes us on a tour, through Egypt and her artisans, from Pharaonic times, to Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Coptic, Islamic, Turkish, which have left their indelible marks on the Nile Valley." In her introduction to the book the author expounds her theory that in the creative work of some artisans there is more than just simple reminiscence of the past. In an unconscious manner there is some kind of union between the past and the present. Egyptian artisans, writes Denise, have managed to safeguard the traditions of ancient times. The Nile, a river charged with history and legend, was a galvanising element, the nucleus of an organised life which had its traditions and moves. It was in Egypt that the first manifestations of the art of weaving was born. The Goddess Isis taught her subjects how to use the loom. Now in the 20th century, weaving has become one of the most popular, and at the same time, traditional forms of art. Akhmim tapestry bears testimony to how much it flourishes. Egyptian artisans work individually, as members of a family cell or in a workshop. Tens of thousands of men and women in Egypt have improved their standard of living through their work as artisans. These artisans have their own qualities, and they have always kept their place. In spite of the development of industry, the artisans and the craftsmen have managed to survive. But certain nuances have been imposed upon them which have affected their work. Certain crafts have flourished while others are threatened and risk disappearing within the next few years. Denise gives examples. Basket and pottery making are flourishing, having kept their function in rural areas and native quarters in the cities. Textile and leather ware also belong to the daily life of the people, but they are also appreciated by foreigners living in Egypt as well as by tourists. On the other hand, some crafts are the principal victims of industrial production, such as woodwork and blown glass. Conscious of this danger, the Ministry of Culture has created different centres and workshops for training in these crafts, like those at Wekalet El-Ghouri and Beit El-Sennari. After this comprehensive introduction, Denise deals with the different crafts: clothes, jewellery, textiles, tent making, basket work, leather ware, pottery, woodwork, metals, blown glass, glasswork, stone sculpture, batik and papyrus. The traditional Egyptian dress, the galabiya, is worn by Egyptian peasants, men and women. The styles of the galabiya are always the same but the colours differ. Black is the normal colour of the feminine galabia, but as Denise reveals the black galabia is only the outermost, under which the woman may be wearing four other dresses of different colours. There are certain moves attached to clothes. In principal an adolescent girl or a newly wed dresses in light colours, even in the streets. However when she bears her first baby she must change into black. Denise describes in detail the dresses in the different regions of the country: the oases, Upper Egypt, Nubia, and in the cities. Now there is the fashion of wearing folkloric dresses. Foreigners and city dwellers are now wearing Bedouin or peasant dress, and we find the village of Kerdassa near the Pyramids becoming a shopping centre for handmade native dresses. There is, as Denise tells us, revealing an endless series of fascinating facts, the Kerdassa Dress.
