By Lubna Abdel-Aziz As the falling leaves drift by your window, despite the obstinate summer heat, it signals zero-hour for a wardrobe check. There is little need to panic. Ten out of ten women have at least one black outfit in their winter closet, and rightly so. Black is elegant, engaging, practical and always appropriate. It also happens to perfectly fit the social mood of economic and political strife, most of us are experiencing. No wonder designers have left their mad, multifarious, mushy display of colours and opted for more subdued hues, particularly, in that daring, intriguing -- Black. Several creations of this iconoclastic shade adorned the runways, to the delight of devotees. Naturally there are alternatives. Each season we hear of "fashion's new black". Some say "Brown" is the new "black", others tout "grey" or" navy blue". Major connoisseurs insist that Black has no equal. The renowned French Vogue former editor, Corinne Roitfeld assessed: "Brown is sad. Navy blue is conservative. Grey is dull". "Black is chic". Amen!!! Women may have borrowed black from the male, but now they own it. Romantics and dandies of the19th century, those black-clad young men so sensitive and soul-searching, must have been in touch with their feminine sides enough to inspire the innocent virgin as well as the decadent widow. Who can forget Vivien Leigh, tapping her feet in her widow's weeds, and itching to dance with the dashing Captain Rhett Butler in" Gone with the Wind", (1939). Women successfully dragged black out of their mourning wardrobe, and out into the bright light of the 20th century. Mademoiselle Chanel is credited for inventing the famous LBD, (the Little Black Dress), and ever since it has become the stylish, seductive, must-have staple in every woman's cupboard. What if you are not a black aficionada? Mix it with gold for a dazzling face lift or with white, for that favourite classic combo. If Black is altogether unacceptable, there is a plethora of other autumn shades to choose from, mostly toned-down and solemn. Violet is prominent, so is hunter-green for our nature lovers.. Opulent customers prefer to call them amethyst and emerald. Bordeaux for the snobs, wine for the simple at heart, and the range of metallic colours were popular on the runways especially at Yves Saint Laurent and Versace. Leather popped up in black as well as various colours, even orange, which also emerged as a winter favourite. Anna Molinari's "Blumarine" line, which has been a big seller of late, sent to her catwalk an army of self-assured ladies with positive attitudes in shimmery outfits from morning till evening. The metallic effect was dominant particularly with the added sequins and beads that seem to pop up on every item of clothing this season. 'Suiting up' seems de rigueur, which is a good thing for the more demure among us. From Chanel to Donna Karan, models were suited up for business and for pleasure. Karan adorned her girls with the masculine double-breasted jackets, exaggerated shoulders, wide-peaked lapels and even pocket squares. It may be a severe look, but on the right figure, can be very seductive. Think of the androgynous looks of Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Katherine Hepburn and Bianca Jagger. Just as Fashion inspires movies, movies also inspire Fashion. "A woman in a man's suit is quite provocative, provided she does not disguise her femininity". Gone are the days when a woman could be arrested for transvestitism in New York City, no less, as late as the 1930s. Capes, also originally a man's attire, are a popular and easy item to add to your wardrobe. Dolce& Gabbana went straight to the heart of Sicily for their elaborate creations, which can be flattering only to a select few. Valentino remained true to the Maison's philosophy, which simply is 'ladies first'. Boots and pants galore, mostly ankle length, but boots still can reach any length. Platforms and stiletto heels are getting so high, we might even require assistance just to get into them. You may give your luggage hand bag, or carpetbag a rest this season, and pick up a clutch instead, even for daywear. If a clutch is confining, the cross shoulder purse is practical and safe. If one item is all you are planning in order to revamp this season's wardrobe, make it a spectacularly stunning voluminous coat. Sculptural in shape and eye-catching, it comes in many lengths and many colours. Cinch it at the waist with a fabulous belt for extra-sophistication. Some come with their own built in capes, for added drama. Karl Lagerfeld, in his Haute Couture Chanel show, had model after model strut on the catwalk wearing practically the same thing with little variations-----ankle length pants, with slightly shorter coats in mono-coloured shades. Some coats were pea-coat or tunic length, while most were slightly shorter that the ever- so-slim- pants. As for that King of Colours, Black, well, what more can we say! In the latest film version of Tolstoy's "Anna Karenina",out next month, Keira Knightley is donned in that notoriously bewitching Black Ball gown which seduces Vronsky on the spot. Who can forget Rita Hayworth as the enticing "Gilda", or Audrey Hepburn as the enchanting Holly in "Breakfast at Tiffany's"? Black is favoured by designers, movie-stars, painters, fashionistas, widows and debutantes, priests and nuns, as well as you and me. They say "women who wear black lead colourful lives". Does that ring true? Why does Black retain its prominence? Because it is ageless! "You can wear black at any time. You can wear it at any age. You may wear it on almost any occasion. A little black frock is essential to a woman's wardrobe." -- Christian Dior (1905-1957)
