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Under the sea
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 05 - 04 - 2012


By Lubna Abdel-Aziz
Miles and miles of heavenly treasures lie hidden beneath the ocean bed. Sensational sea-creatures, surrounded by various flowers and plants, present a dazzling array of multitudinous shapes, colours and textures. Bright, pearly and iridescent, they shake and shimmer below the water surface, displaying Nature's divine genius. With all this visible beauty, the sea has many secrets, still unfathomable to man.
Fashion designers took a stab at the unfathomable mysteries of the deep, this summer season. Sailing on an aquatic, deep-water cruise, they have presented us with a savory dish of delectable sea-foods and fruits, which are hard to resist. With their sharp scissors on the national pulse, they offer an escape from the tumultuous troubles of our times, sending us off on a dreamy sea-voyage, with a clear destination of hope and optimism, with which to greet the new season.
What are we going to love to wear this summer? From the houses of Chanel, Versace, Givenchy and McQueen among others, a splash of sea-water inundated their runways. For Chanel, Lagerfeld, the reigning major-domo, turned the Grand Palais into Neptune's kingdom, below the vast ocean bed. Dazzling sea-horses, starfish and sea- shells, floating fishes by coral reefs, surround swarms of sleepy mermaids. Models were luminescent in pearly sea- shell colours, trimmed with flimsy ruffles, resembling endless yards of clutching sea-weed. So flattering are feminine ruffles, they are here to stay, even at innovative Chanel. Sea-Captain Lagerfeld added his unmistakable modern brush to the sea-side romance, proving that the master is always ahead of his time. His colours range from ivory to nude, from pale coral to bright salmon. There is always room for black, at the House of Chanel, and this season is no exception. Fabrics include the signature tweeds, but gossamer chiffon, organza and muslin present a sharp contrast.
Is Lebanese-born Elie Saab fast becoming king of the catwalk? So it would seem, judging from the lines of fashionistas, movie-stars and celebrities, rushing for fittings at his Champs Elysees Atelier. His show opened with the palest of palettes that slowly evolved into stronger colours, refreshingly bright and cheerful. His prints are minimal but the combination of fabric and colour are more eloquent than a flower bouquet. His sea-anemone shades move freely like the gentle waves, when the sea is still. His oyster- shell short length georgette dress with full volume skirt is a fast best seller, and is also available in golden yellow, lapis blue and emerald green. The night belongs to Saab. When evening falls, nothing can make a woman glow like a gown from his collection. His embroidered or lace gowns with deep V necklines, have been literally bought off the models' backs. Shimmering mermaid sequins, light up the night as they swish and shine, with sensuous appeal. Equally appealing are the delicate diaphanous chiffons that seem to breathe in and out with the beating of the heart.
Giorgio Armani is another name for elegance! He always dances to a different drummer, but was he too lured by the waters of the deep? The iridescence of jellyfish dresses, confirm the aquamarine mood style that has swept the runways. Even minimalist Armani has been seduced by the tidal wave of the season, with the sparkle of mermaids as they briefly rise to the water surface. The ebb and flow of unmistakable elegance was never better expressed than in his sleek, satin white gowns more splendiferous than any sea-horse or sea-anemone.
Always a summer favourite, Black and White is the ultimate in perfect taste. They never looked better than they do in the Armani collection. His black, wafer-thin trousers delicately slit in the front are the peak of chic. Black suits edged in white or vice-versa are cool and elegant with flashes of wit reflected in the master designer's twinkling eyes and hidden smile. His fabrics are also of the 'sea'- through style, such as chiffon, lace, organza and the rest, mostly in shades of white. Yes, there are a myriad shades of white and Armani uses most of them, for his sea- voyage adventure on cool, crisp waters.
Lengths are available for all tastes, forms and figures...... at the knee or slightly below for narrow shapes, or slightly above for flared dresses. If you have the perfect legs and the right age, minis abound for your pleasure.
Mediterranean sunshine bursts its golden rays at Dolce and Gabbana's. Mouth watering platters of meals by the sea-shore, of lobster and crab, accompanied by those Mediterranean favourite staples of crimson tomatoes, grass- green peppers, and purple aubergines, displayed on full- skirted dresses, look good enough to gobble up. If pale shades are not for you, there are prints galore to cheer you up throughout the long hot summer
Hairstyles, long and bouncy are gorgeous when elegantly groomed. Hair is also pulled back neatly in a variety of pony styles, adorned with headbands and bows. Wet looks and bangs are popular again, and long, straight hair, simply brushed to the side, leaves most of the work to hair ornaments. Lips are sensually dramatic in bright red or beige nudes and smoky eyes keep coming back, perhaps because they are most flattering. If you can wear them, heels are longer than ever on flowered sandals or sequined platforms, for evening wear.
If all this sea-talk has made you sea-sick, just stay cool this season with a minimum of fuss. There is much to worry about besides fashion!
A sweet disorder in the dress Kindles in clothes a wantoness.
-- Robert Herrick (1591-1674)


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