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Old Cataract's new belle époche
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 29 - 03 - 2012

The legendary turn-of-the-last-century Old Cataract Hotel in Aswan is now as glamorous as it ever was following three years of restoration, writes Nevine El-Aref
On a hilltop in Aswan, at the spot where the River Nile meets a granite barrier to create the first cataract, stand the elegant Old Cataract Hotel, a favourite haunt of film stars and royalty with one of the best views in existence. The building combines three different architectural styles in a harmonious blend of late Victorian opulence, Egyptian atmosphere and an inimitable touch of French taste.
The first legend of the hotel relates to its name, which refers to the old belief that the collision of the Nile with the northernmost granite barrier of land was actually the point where the civilised world reached its end. The hotel overlooks Elephantine Island, a place of some significance in ancient Egypt as the centre of the cult of Khnum, god of the cataract and the annual inundation.
Nowadays, the hotel's central location places it close to the Nubia Museum, the Unfinished Obelisk, the Aga Khan mausoleum and Kitchener's Island.
Since its construction by Thomas Cook in 1899, the Old Cataract has been a luxurious place for the rich and the famous, the aristocratic and the creative, to rest, contemplate and immerse themselves in the magic of the Aswan Nile.
Its list of notable guests is remarkable, and far too lengthy to give here in detail. Among them, however, was the British crime writer Agatha Christie, who in 1934 wrote part of her novel Death on the Nile in a first floor suite from where she could enjoy a view of the red and white Victorian-Edwardian exterior design, the black iron balconies and colonial-style terrace.
Other guests were British Prime Minister sir Winston Churchill; the last emperor of Russia, Czar Nicholas II; Howard Carter, British archaeologist and discoverer of Tutankhamun's tomb; the Aga Khan; Prince Arthur, Duke of Connaught and Strathearn and king Farouk of Egypt. The hotel's sublime atmosphere also so captivated French perfumer Jean Claude Ellena that it inspired him in 2005 to create for Hermès the delicate fragrance "Jardin sur le Nil".
For more than 11 decades, the Old Cataract has continued to lure rich and elite clients as well as to host political, economic and social events. Regrettably, though, time has taken its toll on the exquisite building. Because of its Islamic sections it has been placed on Egypt's heritage list, and in 2008 the Ministry of State for Antiquities (MSA), then the Supreme Council of Antiquities, closed the hotel for complete restoration.
The programme of restoration was orchestrated by French interior designer Sybille de Margerie. De Margerie found restoring the building a true challenge. She needed to preserve the history embedded in every wall and the ghost of every one of its legendary visitors, as well as provide the facilities and luxuries that guests expect in the 21st century. And this she has done, successfully bringing together the Victorian architectural style and the hints of the Egyptian and French.
The restoration involved a complete overhaul of a building's structure rather than a superficial or cosmetic facelift. The soul and splendour of the building is preserved while the architecture has been updated for a decidedly contemporary look.
Mohsen Sayed, head of the Islamic and Coptic Antiquities Department at the MSA, told Al-Ahram Weekly that the restoration included the consolidation of all the building's walls, domes and wooden ceilings, some parts of which were infested by white ants. All the Oriental engravings and Arabesque decorations have been cleaned and restored, together with the mashrabeya (decorative woodwork windows).
Damaged marble tiles in the lobby were replaced by new ones in the same style, as were those in the oriental restaurant built in 1902. Cement decorations were also restored as well as the damaged red blocks of the building itself.
A new lighting and drainage system was installed together with new CCTV cameras. The chairman of the holding company for Tourism, Hotels and Cinema (HOTAC), Ali Abdel-Aziz, said all the pipes and electro-mechanics in the building had been changed. "We couldn't just paint the walls. I think the job was done by the book and it was a team effort," Abdel-Aziz said.
Visitors to the Old Cataract are offered one of two different experiences: the historic charm of the Palace wing or the contemporary elegance of the Nile wing. The palace atmosphere pervades its 76 suites and rooms, including 45 suites named after the hotel's well-known guests.
The Nile wing has 62 accommodations, 37 of which are suites, all with a balcony and a view of the Nile. The friezes and chandeliers in the historic wing are reproduced in the Nile wing linking both buildings.
The hotel's famous rose-coloured terrace offers tea at sunset, a ritual experienced by every one of its famous guests. The 1902 dining room, the Oriental Kebabgy, the Saraya (Palace) Restaurant and the Palms poolside restaurant are all restored to the style of the original Old Cataract.


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