Restaurant review: Fatimid fantasia A mediaeval star-crossed restaurateur is reincarnated as a contemporary Cairene restaurant, muses Gamal Nkrumah Time-travelling comes easy to those who like the Cobbler in The Thousand and One Nights. It conjures up magical palaces that disappear in the blink of an eye. Except that this eatery is Egyptian and not Mesopotamian, and the food is Fatimid-style. The mesmerising charm of Abou El-Sid restaurant in Maadi is unmistakable as every inch indoors is adorned with exquisite Oriental workmanship. Outdoors in the opulent surroundings of pseudo- Arabian décor is equally enchanting and the lavish furnishings open to the star-lit sky. The genie-like waiters glide over to serve diners with a genuine smile. My greedy eyes have already devoured every mediaeval dish on the menu to dream of. The story of Abou El-Sid begins in antique Fatimid Cairo, and survives today with a set of aesthetic thrills that is as heady as anything in the art of haute cuisine. The trials and tribulations of Abou El-Sid, an ill-fated mysterious commoner of mediaeval Cairo, have spawned many tales. Abou El-Sid's wry tale of a humble chef tormented by a wicked sultan, stresses that integrity is the best kept secret of the greatest of chefs. Indeed, if you have an inclination towards preparing fine Egyptian cuisine, you'll know that a great deal of it boils down to honesty. The first thing you have to be honest about is the freshness of the ingredients. The second is which flavour you wish to overwhelm all others. A talented chef, Abou El-Sid cooked happily for friends and neighbours in Fatimid Cairo. Many a married man would desert his wife to come spend the evening savouring his irresistible edibles. He knew that the surest way to a man's heart is through his stomach. The women of his neighbourhood cursed him for his dexterity in the kitchen, and it appears that their incessant cussing bore frightful fruit. A merciless Fatimid sultan, whose name will not be recalled now, had heard about Abou El-Sid's talents. He disguised himself as a wandering merchant and called on Abou El-Sid's tavern. The following evening, the sultan masqueraded as a poor man and revisited Abou El-Sid's humble eatery. The sultan was intrigued by the delectable creations of Abou El-Sid. He summoned the humble cook to his palace and invited Abou El-Sid to take charge of the palace cuisine, a dubious honour Abou El-Sid could hardly afford to decline. So, Abou El-Sid grew tired of the endless carousals and binges of the sultan and his greedy courtiers. He longed for the friendliness and sincerity of his humble neighbours. He repeatedly pleaded with the sultan to return to his humble abode. The sultan flatly refused and in exasperation banished Abou El-Sid and confined the frustrated cook to the palace kitchen. Abou El-Sid complained ever more bitterly. By that time, the harem had learnt something of the secrets of Abou El-Sid's forte with food. He spent the rest of his life in the dungeon prison of the Fatimid sultan. To while the time away, Abou El-Sid jotted down recipes of his exceptional cuisine now served with relish in Abou El-Sid, the restaurant. On offer are traditional Egyptian dishes -- moloukheya, bamia (okra), fatta (a garlicky shank chunk soaked in a rich tomato sauce rice and toasted brown bread), and cracked-wheat ( ferik ) stuffed pigeon. The founders of this exclusive and authentically Egyptian restaurant chain ostensibly discovered Abou El-Sid's book of recipes. Exceptionally tasty is the kishk Saidi (Upper Egyptian-style): a delectable mix of burghul (durum wheat), curdled, or fermented milk and yoghurt with the lustrous texture of custard pudding. The kobeba (fried cracked wheat and lamb meatballs) served with babaghanoug, Abou El-Sid's mint veal kebabs, and chicken livers Alexandrian-style are delightful. The freshness of an exquisite bessara (fava beans and coriander dip) should come from the fragrance of the greens and the vegetables, I presume are judiciously chosen. Abou El-Sid's famous lentil soup is scrumptious and sometimes that is all one wants for supper on a steaming summer evening in the balmy gardens fashioned to resemble an Andalusian courtyard. Abou El-Sid 45 Road Seven, Maadi Tel: 2380 5050 Dinner for Two: LE350
