Restaurant review: Ye Old Tea Shoppe Casual and fine dining under one roof? Hanan Radwan experiences a happy marriage My euphoria was short-lived. The unctuous party of smoked salmon, crab, caviar and a mysterious white sauce danced a joyful jiggle with my taste buds before melting in my mouth and leaving me ravenous for more. Alas, my Ruby Salmon appetiser was no more. Cradled in the decent comfort of an auburn leather couch, I tore off a warm chunk of sesame bread, slathered it with herb butter and consoled myself with the prospect of more to come. I was lunching at the recently opened Mohandessin branch of Richoux, in the hub of Cairo, yet far from the madding crowds of angry drivers. Were it not for the glaring November sun, I could have easily tricked myself into imagining that I was in the restaurant/tearoom's original location in Mayfair, established by the Richouxs, a French couple, when they moved to England 101 years ago. A muffled sigh from my companion brought me back to Mohandessin. Apparently, she too was lamenting the disappearance of her Chicken, Beef Bacon and Avocado, of which all that remained were droplets of the Dijon mustard dressing, tinged with curry -- or was it saffron? Despite my incessant pleas, Richoux's amiable franchise owner would not divulge a single ingredient. Not surprising for a restaurant where the salmon is home- smoked, the bread home-baked and the pasta kneaded from scratch. Indeed, Richoux is a subtle reminder of English tweed, infusing mind and body with warm, decadent satisfaction. Here, meticulous attention is given to quality and authentic decency and the hard work has paid off nicely. The effects appear in the quiet shades of wallpaper imported from England, the spacious cosiness enhanced by spotless mirrors, the shining cutlery, and the nutty freshness of pure semolina dough from which coils of spaghetti have been released, boiled to al dente perfection, and woven around plump cubes of seafood. Like all of Richoux's dishes the Seafood Spaghetti comes in copious portions and made for a satisfying lunch during a previous visit. This time, however, my companion and I were ready for a bigger binge. Unable to forget my Ruby Salmon, I ordered that mesmerising fish again, only this time it came in the form of two giant peach-coloured strips teased with teriyaki sauce and accompanied with tarragon speckled basmati rice. In a word, the salmon was smashing. My companion's sea bass was another seafood sensation, served with buttery saffron risotto, spikes of asparagus and a mini-jug brimming with lemon-herb sauce. The good thing about Richoux is that it doubles as an elegant eatery suitable for business meetings and a clean respite for the traffic weary Cairene eager for his cup of tea and a few nibbles of the freshest pastry. Although the dessert menu at the Mohandessin branch is for now a tad smaller than its big sister in City Stars in Nasr City, the items on offer are delectable. Take the cheesecake with blueberry sauce, for instance: the words creamy, flaky, tart and bittersweet never found a better combination. Or the cinnamon-spiked toffee-apple crepe, a delicious warm package bedecked with blueberry coulis and served with a dollop of aromatic vanilla ice cream. Our heavenly meal aside, my companion and I left with the pleasant reassurance that we can return for a platter of Richoux's signature Eggs Benedict or a glass of emerald lemonade infused with fresh mint, the best I have ever tasted. A drink, a snack, and an elegant meal have one thing in common at Richoux: even the smallest ingredient will be fresh, genuine and lovingly selected. Richoux 49 Al-Zahraa Street, Mohandessin Tel: 3748 9838/ 016 551 1242 Lunch for two: LE413
