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Amental getaway
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 28 - 10 - 2004

Life in a huge high-stress city like Cairo makes escape into another world an everyday necessity. Vivian Salama samples the best spas in town
When my editor approached me to do a review of Cairo spas, I felt as though a spotlight was suddenly shone upon me. Surely, I must have done something seriously good in a past life in order to reap this kind of reward now?
And frankly, who doesn't love to pamper themselves? True, I probably love it a little more than the average person. But let's face it, when you work hard, there's nothing like going somewhere special to unwind after a long week's labour.
Spas have come a long way from the old manicure-pedicure- massage routine. Nowadays, a day at the spa is effectively a mini-vacation close to home. Most up-scale establishments offer everything from fitness to body treatments. And don't be fooled, women are no longer the sole target audience. Men too are now discovering the benefits of spa treatments, and are buying into the "pamper yourself" attitude!
While I would have liked to review every spa in Cairo -- not for personal reasons, but simply in the interest of Al-Ahram Weekly 's readers, of course -- it was only possible for me to try out two. This is not intended as any kind of reflection on those that are omitted.
PAMPERING ON THE NILE: With one of my favourite views in Cairo, it's hard not to love just about anything that happens at Cairo's Grand Hyatt. So it was with a special frisson of anticipation that I took the elevator up to the floor marked "HC", to discover Club Olympus.
Now in its fourth year of operation, the club offers a fully- equipped, two-floor gymnasium with aerobics classes, an outdoor heated swimming pool, and two private spas, one each for men and women.
I was greeted immediately by the kind folks sitting at Club Olympus's reception desk and escorted to the women's spa to get changed and prepare for the bliss I was about to endure.
After getting undressed, it was recommended that I sit in the spa's steam room and sauna for 10 minutes to relax and warm up. In the movies, steam rooms are always small wooden cabins full of heavy-set men discussing scandalous business deals through clouds of dense vapour. Since that seemed unlikely in the women's spa, I really didn't know what to expect.
I entered what turned out to be quite a large room to find myself quite alone. I immediately forgot about the social context as I was gripped by alarm at what the steam was going to do to my hair. Moments after sitting down, two vents began shooting steam directly at me. So here's my first hot tip: try not to sit right next to the steam jets, as I did.
From there, it was off to the sauna to dry off before my massage. I will tell you what I thought of the sauna if I say that my masseuse, a nice young woman named Shaimaa, had to lure me out with promises and cajoling, since I clearly wasn't about to walk out under my own volition.
Shaimaa's hands were gentle and calming, and she was completely patient and understanding as she tried to relax my body while my mind kept working over time, flooding her with questions.
The Olympus stood out from the other spas I tried for having my favourite music to "get lost" to. While the other places generally played classical music, which I love but which unfortunately always reminds me of deadlines, Olympus had a lovely nature track that whisked me away to la-la land in a matter of seconds.
Of course, though it's named after the home of the gods, Olympus is run by human beings, so not everything is perfect. The massage rooms, while comfortable, are not adequately isolated from other people's comings and goings. As a result, even if you are determined to slide away into a state of deep meditation, you can all too easily find yourself eavesdropping on the conversations of passers-by.
Also, the Jacuzzi is a bit on the small side. While I am not sure just how crowded the spa can get at any given time, I can't imagine more than five or six people squeezing into it at once.
The changing room, while clean and comfortable, does not offer one simple luxury that the other spas provided -- namely, slippers and a robe. And in spas, it's often the little things that go a long way towards making your experience special.
Finally, there are no manicures or pedicures on offer at Olympus. While there are plenty of qualified coiffeurs in Egypt who can provide you with just that, it's nice to be able to do a little one-stop-shopping for your body and your mind.
Gripes apart, however, the facilities at the Hyatt's Club Olympus were generally fantastic. Prices are reasonable for what they offer. I particularly recommend the gym. Apart from it being fully equipped, there is a lot of space and you can't beat the view.
FIT FOR A QUEEN: On to the Four Seasons Hotel in Giza. I realise as I start to write to convince you that this was not my favourite spa. Actually, at one point I began to think they might have to call security to drag me out!
Allow me to explain. From the moment I walked into the hotel, I was in awe. I had passed The First Residence several times and been shocked by how unassuming it looks from the outside. But once you're inside, the hotel is pure class.
As is the case with any place, you get what you pay for. At the Four Seasons, you really pay. And you really get something in return.
It's a bit confusing to actually find the Spa & Wellness Centre, which is located on the fourth floor and accessed via two different elevators. When you finally arrive, you are greeted by a long outdoor pool with a stunning view over Cairo. Inside the spa itself, the lights throughout are dim -- a kind of atmosphere of which I am personally a fan.
Spa guests can take advantage of a number of different treatments and massages. Four Seasons is credited with having pioneered the Cleopatra massage: mimicking old beauty remedies and regimes that the Queen of the Nile herself once used, guests soak in a milk bath, are coated with aromatic oils, then enjoy a papyrus wrap, before going on to an Egyptian loofah scrub and hair and scalp massage.
So far, so good: Now, the bad news. The Cleopatra Milk Bath is expensive, as are most of the treatments at the Four Seasons. This heavenly escape will set you back a cool $70.
I received a Balinese massage from a lovely woman named Shereen. Despite the classical music (remember, those deadlines!), Shereen won my admiration for her perfect technique. The only problem I had with the "Balinese" massage was that it felt just like any other massage. Shereen explained to me that this particular technique focusses on soothing pressure points. But while Shereen was definitely great at her job, it all felt the same to me.
Following the massage, I was provided with a disposable bathing suit so that I could make use of the steam room and sauna at my leisure.
Since I went to the Four Seasons at the weekend, I was able to stay and enjoy the facilities. While I did not try the Jacuzzi, it was a beautiful, large tub conveniently located only a few paces from the steam room and sauna.
Here is the best part. The Spa & Wellness Centre has a private "couples" spa. This private room offers everything, including massage tables, a small Jacuzzi, a private sauna and steam room -- exclusively for couples or small groups. According to employees at the spa, people often call from overseas to guarantee a slot at the private spa, so popular is it.
Once again, however, this treatment does not come cheap. A two-hour session at the private spa will set you back $210.
Leaving aside the prices, it is very difficult to criticise the Spa & Wellness Centre at the Four Seasons. However, I will just say that the massage rooms were a tad on the cold side. It's a bit tough to relax completely when you are shivering! Otherwise, it was a beautiful escape.
My conclusion is simple. Go do something nice for yourself! You work hard all day. You take care of your family, your expenses and your life. You deserve it.
And ladies, take the man in your life with you. He may resist at first, but once he is on the massage table, he'll be hooked. Let's face it, daily life in Cairo can, in and of itself, be stressful. Sometimes a mental getaway is the best vacation money can buy.


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