From sandy bays to lush lagoons, Red Sea resorts to the north and south of Hurghada offer retreats to suit all moods. Colette Kinsella trawls a surprisingly diverse 70km stretch of coastline SOMA. I find myself in an immense atrium flanked by marble columns, polished marble tiles underfoot. The air is light and cool with the delicate, muted quality of a faded watercolour. The walls are constructed of sand-coloured blocks, with large Pharaonic reliefs set into niches on either side of the main hall. Walking towards a balcony, I notice passageways to my left and right. At the far end of each is a colossal sandstone statue of a seated Ramses. Drawn to the large window at the end of the main hall, I look down past the sweeping staircase at a gigantic black marble statue of the ancient god Horus. The window, reaching from floor to ceiling, presents an unrivalled view of the clean lines of a vast swimming pool with a pyramid cascade crowning the top section and two majestic sphinxes, gaze directed to the horizon, on either side of the lower section... Yes, I am in fact standing in a hotel lobby, though barring the swimming pool and pyramid fountain, you may be forgiven for thinking I was describing a temple in Thebes. This is one of the newest venues of the Sheraton Hotel chain in Egypt, and it's located in the stunning and unspoilt Soma Bay, approximately 45 kilometres south of Hurghada on the Red Sea coast. The entire Soma Bay area is managed by a single entity, the Abu Soma Development Company, which has resulted in an overall impression of harmony between mankind (of the tourist kind) and the environment. The emphasis is on premium-quality service and off low-grade mass tourism, and the architecture and organisation of the three Soma Bay hotels currently in business reflect this concept. Like many hotels and shopping malls in this country, the architecture of the Sheraton is inspired by ancient Egypt; but unlike somany other efforts, however, the result here is tasteful, understated elegance. Together with the lobby and other public space, the hotel exterior is modelled on a Pharaonic temple, but the architects have been careful to avoid interrupting the natural flow and integrity of the surroundings; thankfully, they have also eschewed kitsch. The entire building is low-level; the pool and activities area are laid out in the symmetrical lines of a classical French garden. The structure is easy on the eye, with subdued colours and simple, inviting lines. And generated by the architecture, the care with which the area was developed and the resort's comparatively small size, the atmosphere of the Sheraton is remarkably relaxed. The structure impresses rather than overwhelms. The ancient Egypt theme is set at the very entrance, with the driveway lined with rams in the style of Karnak Temple. This leads onto a causeway sweeping up to the main entrance and lobby. Though broad and high, the large lobby area is neither ostentatious nor imposing. The corridors leading to the rooms exude fresh, earthy colours, the walls are hung with traditionally woven klims, and the same light concept is carried through into the rooms themselves, which are as well appointed and comfortable as any five-star hotel room -- and very spacious, with balconies affording an incredible view of the Red Sea and the desert -- the perfect place to relax in the evening to watch the moon rise. Provisions for children notwithstanding -- this hotel not only caters to but actively welcomes them -- unnecessary noise is by and large kept to a minimum. With relief I notice the absence of insidious elevator music in the lobby, the dearth of thumping by the poolside. At the vast and inviting breakfast buffet my coffee is discreetly replenished by a waiter who is neither obsequious nor overly flirtatious. Settling into restaurant seats, sun lounges, or poolside chairs against the breathtaking backdrop of the distant mountains, the guests are entertained by nothing more than the spectacle of the Red Sea doing what it does best: looking simply stunning. Which is not to say there is nothing to do. The hotel offers a whole range of Red Sea activities to keep bodies off the sun lounges, should they so desire: diving and snorkelling; waterskiing, catamaran and laser sailing; and yes, for those who feel the need to make a public spectacle of themselves, there are also aerobics classes in front of the gym and aqua-aerobic classes in one of the four freshwater pools. And now for some statistics: the hotel comprises 277 rooms, 21 executive, 14 beach and two presidential suites; three restaurants offering local as well as international cuisine; meeting rooms with space for up to 800 lucky delegates; a poolside bar (of course), as well as a hotel bar and a disco in which to dance off those surplus holiday calories. Wholesome Red Sea air and Egyptian sun are among the healthiest in the world, so what better place for a wellness spa to set down roots than Soma Bay. The La Résidence des Cascades golf resort, which has an 18-hole PGA course, incorporates a Thelasso treatment centre. If you're feeling tired or weighed down by the pressures of being, the treatments available in this exquisite venue should be sufficient to rekindle not only your vitality but your lust for life. Explaining the concepts behind the therapy undertaken there, Pascale Coquillard, the centre manager, graciously provided a tour of the complex, pointing out all manner of treatment rooms, each exquisitely executed in Turkish-style mosaic tiling, with wrought-iron touches and colour-coordinated soft furnishings. The benefits of seawater are no new discovery, what with the ancient Greeks and Romans making use of it; trace elements in seaweed and seawater help treat rheumatism and circulatory problems and promote general well-being. Operated in conjunction with Les Thermes Marins de St Malo of France and opened in November 2004, the centre is one of the largest in the region, and provides a comprehensive range of treatments from a variety of massages to seaweed wrap and circulatory shower therapy -- a rain of seawater across the whole body. Massage in conjunction with the latter helps the body absorb the required trace elements by osmosis. But it is the 700m aquatonic pool -- with water jets incorporated into its sides, it massages various parts of the body in turn -- that lies at the core of the treatment and, well, if that doesn't make you feel better... Guests may choose from an �-la-carte menu of treatments, or purchase a pre-arranged package. Designed by South Africa's celebrated golfer Gary Player, the 18-hole PGA course, on the other hand, is testimony to the triumph of development over desert. Impossibly green swatches of grass sprinkled around the Cascades make for sublime landscaping. Tuition is available for every level of player but in my own non-golfing opinion, the best experience of the course is to be had over the rim of a wine glass in the English-style Eagle's Nest Bar. Nightlife in Soma Bay is restricted to what the three hotels currently open have to offer, including the Robinson Club (the Hyatt, due to open this year, will add significantly to the nightlife scene), and while buses regularly make the 45km journey into Hurghada, few guests take the opportunity to experience the thrills and spills there to be encountered. I can't say I blame them: after a morning in the sun, an afternoon in the aquatonic pool and an evening grazing through the ample buffet, it's hard to face anything more strenuous than clicking "send" on your mobile phone to remind unfortunate friends back home of what they are missing. SAHL HASHEESH. We're on the road heading north to Hurghada, leaving the tranquil luxury of Soma Bay behind in pursuit of yet another oasis of serenity on the Red Sea coast. Before we find it, however, we must drive past countless tributes to kitsch and, well, downright bad taste. Had I been teleported here from any other part of the planet I would've been able to work out which country I was in -- instantly. Let's see: glass pyramid integrated into hotel façade on one side of the road; country resort sporting "Oriental" onion domes next door; 1001 Nights disco and club topped with garish, cartoon-like domes on the other side of the road; here an obelisk, there a Ramses. Where else... Mass tourism in this part of the country is relatively new; south of Hurghada, both hotels and self-contained resorts were built recently on virgin desert -- perhaps the reason behind the developers going to such lengths to impress on tourists that, yes, they are indeed in Egypt. But before the emergence of Soma Bay and El-Gouna, much of the development proceeded haphazardly, resulting in this hodgepodge of faux Egyptian, Islamic and modern architecture. A shame, really, since both Islamic and Egyptian architecture lend themselves to integration into modern holiday retreats in far more sensible -- not to say attractive -- ways. One example of how this could have been done can be found a mere half-hour's drive south of Hurghada -- in Sahl Hasheesh. It feels like a long awaited relief when, 20km south of Hurghada, we finally leave the onions behind to enter the exclusive realm of Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh, the only hotel on this stretch of coastline. A few adjectives spring to mind as I take in the domes and arches, the bougainvillea and cacti: exquisite; superb; lush; but, most of all, luxurious. Immediately you can see why this resort is a favourite among honeymooners: the entire place is made up of suites, something that guarantees not only privacy but more-than-perfect service. The suites occupy individual villas peppered throughout the grounds; Islamic domes as well as cool marble courtyards with fountains contribute a distinctive Arab feel. And the interior of the main building simply oozes good taste: geometric patterns and traditional mashrabiya lattice work combine with silver engravings, copper lamps, golden domes and fountains to soothe the eye and calm the spirit. Never has luxury been better thought out. The suites -- 102 of them, ranging in size from 85 square metres (deluxe suite) to 225 square metres (royal suite) -- are a story unto themselves: located within picture-perfect manicured lawns, each has its own garden, marble arches, sunken bath, and panoramic view of the area. And as if that wasn't enough, grand and royal suites have their own swimming pools as well. Honeymooners, in addition, are given the royal treatment with special attention from the housekeeping staff. It is worth tying the knot for this alone -- over and over... No doubt the Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh takes taste and tranquillity seriously: there is absolutely no animation provided in the hotel, and the delicate strains of violin which can be heard in the public areas are enough to tame a savage beast. Then there is the Banyan Tree Spa, "an oasis of peace", as it says in the brochure, which will "inspire serenity". Great. I wonder if they could do package deals for warring nations? MAKADI BAY. With Mozart still ringing in my ears, I ease myself gently off the Oberoi complex and back onto the desert road to sample the offerings of Makadi Bay, 35 kilometres south of Hurghada. This area is informed by an altogether different concept from either Soma or Sahl Hasheesh. The area is less exclusive, more densely developed, with far more on offer in the way of nightlife and restaurants. Le Meridien on the Safaga Road is a large resort with 1,044 rooms, where more is most definitely more: more staircases, more rooms, more pool space, more restaurants, more bars and more guests than in either of my two previous destinations. Measuring 6,400 square metres in all, the pool area is not only substantial but beautifully landscaped. And there is certainly much to keep the whole family occupied, with an astounding range of activities from windsurfing and fishing, parasailing and submarine trips to the corals, to horse riding, camel jaunts and good old plain sunbathing -- the latter courtesy of the 550 square-metre beach. More guests also means more restaurants, and Le Meridien offers plenty of outdoor options including Italian and international cuisine. Le Meridien is but one of several hotels in this area offering an all-inclusive deal; this means all meals, soft drinks and local alcoholic beverages are included in the price. Another such option is the five-star Iberotel Makadi, which is quite a bit smaller than the Le Meridien (in the region of 300 rooms). Built along Islamic architectural lines, with domes, archways and columns, buildings of the Iberotel are washed in attractive muted colours that blend in beautifully with the surrounding environment. Once again, activities to keep all and sundry happy from dawn to dusk are in no short supply. On the whole, in fact, Makadi Bay is far more action-centred than either Soma Bay or Sahl Hasheesh. The developers are intensely proud of its resort centre, home to over 145 shops, restaurants and all manner of beauty parlours, not to mention the colourful and substantial nightlife of Hurghada -- a short bus journey away. With attractive deals to complement all budgets, this is an experience not to be missed. EL-GOUNA. Teleport me yet again from my living room to the Sheraton Miramar in El-Gouna and you are likely to find me disoriented, to say the least -- hard pressed to pin-point my geographical location. For it the renowned architect Michael Graves, the designer of this five-star hotel, has managed to fashion, out of Egyptian desert, a peculiarly modern Garden of Eden more reminiscent of northern Australia than Egypt. Designed to feel like a village, its 340 rooms are scattered across a cluster of small islands surrounded by impeccably blue lagoons. And walking across the cool pathways that connect the reception area to the hotel amenities is like walking through a lush, dense rainforest that stimulates all the senses. The riotous blossoms, for example, are in themselves a sight to behold; the air is heavy with perfume and something else one rarely experiences in Egypt -- the earthy, primal odour of rich, fertile soil. And singing birds, lots of them. El-Gouna is a unique holiday location. The entire area was created on 11 million square metres of desert and its distinctive character stems from the fact that a single developer, Orascom's Samih Sawiris, retains strict control of all activities and developments within. The emphasis is on harmony, with particular attention paid to the environment, and all hotels and apartments are required to adhere to environmental and architectural specifications. Inspired by the Nubian domed dwellings to be found in Upper Egypt, the Sheraton Miramar is no different from other El-Gouna buildings in that it comprises an eclectic mix of Nubian, Arab and modern architecture. Guests in the Miramar are exposed to nature -- however rendered -- in all its breathtaking glory. And the layout is such that you feel you are the only guest. The view from a typical terraced room, for example, consists of overhanging bougainvillaea, cacti, intense greenery, water and the horizon. The temptation is to forget that the rest of the world exists. And detail, both inside and out, is remarkably beautiful, whether it concerns the shapes and colours of the exterior or such soothing sights as the fountain, wooden finishing and marble arches of the reception area. The hotel complex is rich, inviting and absorbing -- paradise has definitely been found. And paradise of a different kind can be had at the new Panorama Bungalows Resort, located next to El-Gouna's golf course. The hotel, which opened late last year, offers something very distinctive: over-water bungalows on stilts that feel entirely different to land-based accommodation. The idea was conceived by the hotel's general manager, Hassan Hegazi, together with developer Reda Rizq. Looking for inspiration for a new hotel, they took a virtual "world tour" via the Internet. "The main point," comments Hegazi, "was to allow the guest to experience water in El-Gouna." And the hotel does this in more ways than one. Guests can book a bungalow facing the open sea, walk out onto the veranda and take a nosedive into the lagoon -- pure bliss, and plenty of privacy for swimming, sunbathing and relaxing. Or they can book one of the bungalows overlooking the smaller enclosed lake, walk out onto the veranda and open the trapdoor in the floor, marvelling at the fish swimming underneath: as of the end of March the waters of this artificial lake will be stocked with hundreds of varieties of Red Sea fish, and guests will have the unique opportunity of fishing for their supper straight off their veranda (vegetarians out there have the option of simply feeding potential catches, no?) Grills are also provided for cooking the fish. Overall the hotel maintains a personal, relaxed atmosphere thanks to its size: only 149 rooms, and this includes garden and over-water bungalows as well as standard rooms and suites.
