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Chronicles of a dress untold
Published in Al-Ahram Weekly on 15 - 06 - 2006

Wrapping up the fashion season takes Jailan Halawi more than a window-shopping spree
What a glorious afternoon it was when my dear Living Page editor phoned to ask if I would be interested in covering a fashion show for Al-Ahram Weekly. Before I knew it the shopping mania had set in -- "Just tell me where and when" -- but then, with not a little surprise, I realised it had been years since I last attended a fashion event, notwithstanding my passion for this magnificent industry. Once again I thought of my dream of becoming a fashion designer myself: how as a secondary-school student I used to design my evening dresses, offer my friends tips on theirs. In those days the clothing market offered little; it didn't matter whether you were seeking casual wear or haute couture. Shopping meant either boarding a plane or asking a friend who lived abroad, attempting to describe exactly what style of shoes you preferred. It took stamina.
This seems to be no longer the case. However gradual -- or indeed slight -- the fashion market has experienced a boost over the last few years, thanks in large part to the proliferation of mega-malls and greater interest and facility in enterprise across borders. And so it seemed appropriate after all, that I should be resuming my fashion interest with a haute couture and soirée show at the Imperial Boat off the banks of the Nile in Zamalek now of all times, on Wednesday 7 June, and seeing the stunning work of a home-grown designer, the Egyptian Mohamed Dagher. A truly awesome experience, too: daring cuts combined with a palette of orange, yellow, pink, gold -- need I mention black? -- to deliver an astonishing range of very appealing summer fare. It was that same collection that won Dagher the 2006 Designer Choice prize during the Miami Fashion Week -- the largest Latin American fashion event in the US, and with participation from all over the world, one of the most important. Dagher, 29, started his career five years ago with inspiration from ancient Egyptian dress, in which pieces of fabric were draped and wrapped around the body, held in place by waist belts, sashes and collars. This, indeed, is what Dagher's present-day clothes are like. They depend on an inventive combination of colours and textures. As he told me, indeed, "all women are beautiful, they just need to know what suits them. My concern is always to observe my client's character, spotting her strong points and making sure they work with the strong points of my design." Well then, so be it.
Soon again, I was interviewing another Egyptian designer, Hisham Abul-Ela, who was working with the Milan designer house Moschino for eight years. On returning to Egypt four years ago, with his sister, Abul-Ela established his own fashion line, "Valentina". Based on chiffon and satin, Abul-Ela uses such difficult colours as fuchsia and leopard skin. Yet his tips for the contemporary woman are surprisingly simple. Most important of all, he says, a woman must understand that, even in jeans, she can exercise charm what makes a difference, rather, is self-knowledge. A woman should recognise her own character and add her personal touch without fear, imitating no one. A pair of jeans and a white shirt are a must in every female wardrobe anyway, he says. In summer it is important to go for bright colours to reflect freshness. He prefers sandals with delicate heals, which emphasise the shape of the body, he says. A knee-high bermuda with blouses of natural fabric is highly recommended, so are plain T-shirts with beads or a nice print -- to go with the aforementioned jeans. For the evening, Abul-Ela insists, Sixties knee-length and shorter dresses, tight from the waist up, are the thing. Fashion, Abul-Ela insists, does not take much more than "taste, style and zest -- love of life".
I went back to the office overwhelmed with what I saw, my appetite for fashion greater than ever. I had a good enough pretext for scaling the lengths and breadths of the market, anyway: this review of the summer season. It was a happy week in the malls that left me euphorically penniless. Journalistically, too, it paid off. On one occasion, I asked my younger male cousins to come along to the hottest mall in Cairo, Citystars, and try and stop me from spending -- and we started off with 30 minutes of complete success. I was detachedly taking notes while my cousins, fascinated with this new persona of mine, paid close attention. I even went so far as to philosophise about the workings of the fashion world -- how it changes and yet stays fascinating, its intricate exoticism and diversity. And my cousins seemed sufficiently amused while, reaching a new pinnacle on the escalator, I explained, "in a rapidly changing world, styles go in and out of fashion too quickly to establish what a universal driving force could possibly be. What once seemed out of fashion could easily become the designer's muse." And as we stepped onto yet another, huge floor, I could easily demonstrate: a year ago, short skirts were all over the place; this year long, as we could see, long, wavy skirts took over. Long, relaxed dresses of cotton or linen in neutral colours and jersey knit dresses -- with the shirt dress leading the way -- seemed to fit all occasions. With a touch of crochet, lace or eyelet, the jerseys in particular did not lack for subtle but effective flamboyance. There were collars and belted waists, full skirts and infinite, delightful variations on the traditional cut. Lo and behold, I thought: the crochet cardigans is back in.
That said, it was shorts and trousers that formed the hottest store items, from knee-length shorts to roll-up cargo trousers of adjustable length, dark straight jeans or a pencil skirt which, paired with an airy woven top, has its own fresh, summery allure. Indeed 30 minutes seemed like a lifetime. In a trance I entered one of my favourite shops. Two hours later I came out. My cousin was saying, "now, now, please. Leave something in the shops for someone else." They were both carrying large bags now, many of them -- as I realised, to my surprise, my own purchases. There was still much to be had in the windows, though. And with little money left in my purse, I made a prompt exit promising myself to return with next month's pay.


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