What drew me to Marsa Alam was a film I saw a few years ago called Ahlam Omrena, or “Dreams of our Lives”, about a group of young people starting a business in the resort. What I found during my recent visit to Marsa Alam was that at close quarters the place is just as picturesque as it is in the dreamlike photographs one glimpses in tourist brochures about this Red Sea resort. Majestic mountains, enchanting surf, and a bewildering range of marine life are enough to beguile the visitor with a seemingly unlimited choice of entertainment and sports. But don't forget the Pharaonic sites nearby, the diving trips, the quadbike rides, and the Bedouin dinners under star-studded skies. In Marsa Alam one is spoiled for choice. Visitors can fill their days with activities, or just choose one or two things and let the velvety magic of this extraordinary place envelop them, a depository of dream images unfolding with every hour relaxing on the beach, or floating on the water, snorkelling over colourful reefs, and taking in the peerless marine life. Situated about 280 km south of Hurghada, another popular Red Sea resort, Marsa Alam is within striking distance of the inland attractions of Luxor and Aswan. A perfect destination for the winter season, it offers year-round opportunities for diving and water sports, including windsurfing and kitesurfing. If you are a fan of marine life, you must pay a visit to Marsa Shagarah, the oldest diving centre in Marsa Alam. Hossam Helmi came to this area 27 years ago and says that when he arrived in 1989 it was a military zone and he had to apply for a special permit to run safaris and diving trips. He bought some diving gear and built some cabins and started a small business that has grown over time. Now, his centre attracts up to 500 divers a day from all over Europe. It is particularly popular among Germans, French, and Italians. But the Danish, Belgians and Swiss have also become regular clients. What attracts tourists to Marsa Alam, Helmi says, is that it has 1,253 species of marine life, more than double any other spot in the world. The coral is also more colourful than in other regions, as the Red Sea is five per cent more saline than average, and the salt protects the reef. Helmi is so enamoured with life in Marsa Alam that for the past 27 years he has rarely left it for more than a few days every year. Europeans love the place because it is sunny for the entire year, he says. “If I see some clouds, I rush outside and take photographs,” he adds. Within a short distance of Marsa Alam visitors can explore several natural protected areas and admire the forests of mangrove, a plant that grows in salt water. The bulk of European tourists come in the spring, around April-May, and then again in autumn, around October-November. Egyptians, meanwhile, come on bank holidays, especially on Sham Al-Nessim, the springtime feast that often coincides with Easter, says Rafik Farouk, a dive centre marketing specialist. “Diving enthusiasts, including some from the American University in Cairo and the British University in Egypt, came here for lessons,” Farouk adds. Visitors can either stay in simple cabins by the sea or in more sophisticated chalets some distance away. All tend to congregate at night for an evening of Bedouin food and entertainment. Visitors to Marsa Alam can choose between 72 hotels catering to a wide range of budgets and tastes. Shoni Bey: One of the attractions of the area is Shoni Bey, a sandy beach with an extensive coral reef that is perfect for snorkelling as the corals are fairly close to the surface. Marine life, including turtles and a wide variety of colourful fish, enhance the underwater world. Because of the lovely coral reef extending out in all directions, visitors can enjoy it just by floating on the water. In addition to the maritime wealth, rare creatures such as sea cows and sea turtles may surprise visitors by appearing on the surface of the water. If you spend enough time diving or snorkelling, you may even get to see dolphins. George Gabriel, the owner of a hotel in Shoni Bey, says that Marsa Alam deserves more promotion. Road improvements and cheaper airfares could help boost tourism in the area, he adds. His views are echoed by Nabil Riyad, a hotel manager in Shoni Bey, and Mohamed Abdel-Shafi, a hotel expert. According to Abdel-Shafi, the distance between Marsa Alam and Luxor can be travelled in two hours, but it takes up to four hours at present due to sub-standard roads. Sharm Al-Luli: About 55 km south of Marsa Alam is Sharm Al-Luli, or the Gulf of Pearls. This is a shallow lagoon with plentiful coral and marine life surrounded by a charming beach with soft, golden sand. Diaa Shawki, a desert geologist, has been organising trips to various attractions around Marsa Alam for several years. He says that the area is not only rich in marine life, but the nearby desert is also replete with Greek and Pharaonic sites that are well worth a visit. Shawki recommends a visit to Wadi Skeet within the Wadi Al-Gemal protected area. The desert here is scattered with minerals and salts and includes the remains of hidden Greek and Pharaonic cities. Not far from Sharm Al-Luli is Abu Ghusun, a Bedouin village whose inhabitants now mostly work in the tourist industry. Ahmad Baraka, Ali Abdel-Meguid, Mohamed Mahmoud, and Abu Yasser are all young men from the Al-Ababidah tribe and organise Bedouin parties on the beach featuring local food and music for tourists. Mona and Mariam, young women from the same tribe, sell Bedouin handcrafted products, including leather items and bead necklaces. Hassan Ali, a member of the tribe, says that the area extending from Marsa Alam to Halayeb and Shalatin is home to the tribes of Al-Ababidah and Al-Bashayrah who have traditionally survived on herding but are now partially involved in the tourist industry. A tour inside Wadi Al-Gemal may lead you to an enchanted lake that is replete with rare birds and exquisite examples of fauna and flora. Surrounded by mangroves on one side and mountains on the other, the lake attracts flocks of migratory birds. By the side of the lake, Hammouda, a member of the Al-Ababidah tribe, is busy preparing a simple dinner for visitors to a restaurant bordering the lake. Zakaria Hanna, a local guide, says that some tourists come from Europe to spend their birthdays in this magical spot. Hamata Beach, located about 20 km away, is a wonderful spot for kitesurfing because of the steadiness of the wind and the right depth of the water. Port Ghalib: For a bit of night life, visitors may want to check out the Port Ghalib Marina not far from Marsa Alam Airport. If you arrive during the day, you could take a one-day cruise to the famous islands and beaches nearby, or just spend a relaxing time on the lovely beach. You could also stay in the upscale hotels run by the Al-Kharafi Group or sample the restaurants and cafes in the vicinity. At night, you'll be spoiled for choice of live music and shopping opportunities in the nearby bazaar. Wadi al-Sheikh Malek: Desert trip enthusiasts can take trips with Khalil, a cheerful man who owns a 4 x 4 and organises daily visits to desert locations, including Wadi Al-Sheikh Malek about one hour inland from Marsa Alam. There, visitors can rest under the acacia trees for a Bedouin meal, or venture forward to visit some of the nearby attractions, including phosphate and gold mines. Bedouin camel owners, including Am Said and Am Abdallah, offer rides to tourists who want to savour the desert scenery at a slow pace. For those in a more adventurous mood, quadbikes are also available for short safari trips.
